I’m back in the city where Jagger likes to swagger
THERE has been a British presence in Argentina since Victorian times. And as if to reaffirm those links, The Rolling Stones were in Buenos Aires, wowing fans at La Plata stadium, when I returned to the country for the first time in more than 30 years.
I was last there in 1982, covering the Falklands conflict for the BBC’s Newsnight programme.
Even in those dark days there were constant reminders of the historical links between our two nations. Buenos Aires had its own Hurlingham Club, where
the wealthy played polo, a Harrods, and a mini version of Big Ben in a place they called Britannica Square. Today, Harrods is gone, but the Hurlingham remains, while the square and the clock tower have been renamed. And nearby there is a memorial to the young Argentines who never returned from war.
But with its beautiful parks, elegant boulevards and stunning architecture, the city has lost none its charm.
Its most famous landmark is the Casa Rosada, or Pink Palace, where Eva Peron triumphantly announced the release from jail of her husband Juan Peron. It is still a government building and today some locals joke that it is pink because it is blushing over what goes on there – a reference to the scandals that dog the nation.
Bizarre as it may seem, the cemetery at Recoleta is also a must-see, if only for the elaborate nature of its granite and marble mausoleums, including one where Eva Peron is laid to rest.
But the big difference between the 1980s and now is the nightlife. Always a lively city, Buenos Aires now positively buzzes. There are clubs that open at 2am, and a swish new waterfront at Puerto Madero, lined by hotels and restaurants.
If you are looking for more authentic cafes and bars, head to the lovely old districts of Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho.
And no trip to Argentina would be complete without a night at a tango show – we saw a cracker at the Faena Hotel.
Our visit to Argentina came at the end of a two-week South America tour which started in the impressive Chilean capital, Santiago, before crossing into Argentina’s stunning lake district
There we sailed across the crystal-clear waters of Nahuel Huapi, surrounded by snowcapped mountains and volcanoes,
to the gorgeous Llao Llao hotel at Bariloche, in the midst of Argentina’s ‘Little Switzerland’.
After that came one of the seven natural wonders of the world – the dramatic waterfall at Iguazu on the Argentina-Brazil border and a stay at the plush Belmond Das Cataratas. They gave us unforgettable memories. And, oh yes, Jagger and the gang were sensational too.