Strictly jet set
Bruno Tonioli returns to hippy-dippy Mykonos to find the Greek island has become super-chic and he’s joined the...
IHADN’T been to Mykonos for 15 years, and during my absence this small Greek island has become very famous. Matt Damon filmed scenes for his hit Hollywood thriller The Bourne Identity here and the Kardashians also came calling. In addition, millions of holidaymakers have touched down here, all keen to check out this chic Aegean hotspot.
But while some things have changed, the important things haven’t. What struck me when I arrived – just as it had 15 years ago – was the light. The light in Mykonos has got to be the best in the world. Everybody looks fantastic. If you ask me, this is why people pay so much money to come here.
I arrived with a group of friends, including interior designer Kelly Hoppen, and we stayed at the ultrasmart Grace. It’s the perfect place for a relaxing break.
It was an important holiday for me as it would be my last one before the ‘madness’ descended – that crazy period when I have to commute between Strictly Come Dancing in London and its sister show Dancing With The Stars, which is filmed in Los Angeles.
Mykonos’s growing celebrity means that the whole place is now much more upmarket than it used to be. There used to be something of a hippy vibe to the island – all very laidback and largely unsophisticated. Now you get beach clubs such as Nammos, which is the epitome of chic and style. It is a place where you might well bump into an A-list star such as Leonardo DiCaprio, for example.
THE nicest place I found was in the north of the island – a beach bar in Ftelia called Alemagou. This was more like the Mykonos I remembered: all thatched parasols and a sandy floor – more traditional, perhaps, but still very cool. In the evenings, the place is transformed into a nightclub.
We took out a boat one day and explored the island. It was interesting to note – though probably not terribly surprising – that the further east you travel, the beaches become much more laidback. In places such as Elia, Agrari and Paranga, there was barely a soul to be found. But the further west you go, the crazier it gets: the beaches are so packed, people are practically standing on top of each other.
I was also surprised to see that Mykonos has become a magnet for big yachts. The place where the yachts berth looked just like St Tropez – you certainly didn’t see that 15 years ago. I didn’t spot Roman Abramovich or one of the other floating oligarchs but I did see some huge motor yachts. One looked about as big as the QE2. There was a lot of rubber-necking going on, with people wondering if they might catch a glimpse of a celebrity or two.
However, if you keep away from the main tourist places, you can find what people have been enjoying in Greece since the days of Homer: a glass of wine and a gossip as you sit in the velvet warmth of a night illuminated by a million twinkling stars. It’s magical.
I have to say that I’m glad I had a chance to see Mykonos before it went all Hollywood.
I liked it when it was bohemian and a bit hippy-dippy, but when you are staying at a hotel as fabulous as the Grace you can also appreciate the new jet-set Mykonos. The Grace is a beautiful boutique hotel. It’s not a big hotel – just 36 rooms – so it is very quiet, even though it is situated just ten minutes from town. The hotel offers a shuttle service into town but we were happy to enjoy the stroll.
I had a lovely sea view from my room. It felt as if we were staying in a private house. The staff are incredibly nice and very efficient – the service is extraordinary. I also loved the wonderful swimming pool which overlooks the beach at Agios Stefanos.
EVERYBODY who stays in the Grace is very well behaved – you won’t find people running around at 4am causing a nuisance. There can be no higher compliment than to say that Kelly Hoppen is a big fan of the Grace – because she’s not easy to please!
We preferred to dine in the hotel
rather than heading into town because we felt as if we were in a private villa – we almost took over the whole establishment.
When I go to Greece, I have only grilled fish for dinner – I’m so boring. But the fish is always so fresh: red snapper, seabream or fresh calamari, simply cooked with lemon juice, herbs, olive oil, and served with salad. Fabulous.
My worry for Mykonos is that they might overdo the development: there’s a danger that they’ll end up with too many oh-so-chic St Tropez-style beach bars. And if they’re not careful the island might become too expensive for the average punter.
But there’s much more to a holiday here than the nightlife. The best excursion I enjoyed was taking a ferry to the neighbouring island of Delos – the crossing takes about 30 minutes. I was amazed that so few other people were on the boat with me as the fare costs practically nothing. Delos is the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis and is generally reckoned to be one of the most important mytho- logical and historical sites in Greece. It seems like one large archaeological site.
It reminded me of Pompeii in that it has lots of temples, houses and amphitheatres. You can either wander around on your own or join a guided tour. It is the most amazing place and really quite untouched by the modern era.
I would definitely like to return but next time I’ll try to visit outside the peak season – it can get very, very busy in August, particularly if a couple of cruise ships arrive on the same day. It means the island is invaded by several thousand tourists and it can feel as if you’re in the middle of Oxford Street during the Christmas sales.
For anybody travelling at the moment, let me offer a tip for a good holiday book – The Romanovs 1613-1918, by Simon Sebag Montefiore. I read it during my trip and it was the perfect book for the perfect island.