Country gem that hits the bull’s-eye

The Bull Ditchling, East Sussex From £100 a night for 2

DITCHLING Beacon is an 815ft hill in the South Downs that stands between many a cyclist and Brighton. The lycra-clad masses who struggle up it could save themselves a great deal of effort if they simply pulled up and enjoyed a stay at The Bull instead.

This is pretty much the pub of my dreams. It is situated right in the centre of the village, and as you enter there’s a snug and a bar, plus a newly opened restaurant where young bar staff are taking orders for Sunday roasts. Outside, there’s a huge garden with a fire pit for when the temperatures dip.

The main part of The Bull has all the hostelry essentials of log fires and beams that you’d want from a 16th Century building but it has also moved with the times. There are 20 wines to order by the glass and the pub has its own microbrewery called Bedlam.

Above all, it’s friendly, from Molly the incredibly efficient manageress to Tom the quizmaster, who gives us the answer to one of the questions, and Charlie, the waitress who gives us another.

Upstairs, behind a secret doorway, are a handful of rooms. Modish and spacious, they have Anglepoise lamps, bare floorboards, velvet sofas in jewel-like colours, and power showers.

The rooms are booked up for most of the year. Luckily, the owners have just added two more to the original four to ease the situation.

Want to celebrate? Then why not order a bottle of local Ridgeview sparkling wine – the vineyard where it is made is only a fiveminute drive away.

The next morning, I have breakfast in the airy new restaurant while a chimney sweep sets to work on the flues. The menu runs the gamut from a full English to hipster favourite of smashed avocado on sourdough toast.

The place: Ditchling has a full complement of Midsomer-meets-Lovejoy charm, including a winding high street full of cafes and art galleries. Tucked into a crease of the South Downs, it is surrounded by glorious meadows and vineyards.

The accommodation: Full of boutique charm, with bold colours. There are Cowshed products in the bathroom, luxurious cotton sheets and a minibar, plus homemade biscuits to snack on.

The food: Hitting all the spots with locally sourced meats, vegetarian-friendly baked celeriac and fish caught off the Sussex coast. Puddings are more experimental, including a posh take on Arctic roll with honey, pear and… parsnip. Main courses are about £15, and puddings cost £8.