Chile? It’s so cool...
I WAS AT THE EDGE OF THE EARTH... GAZING AT THE HEAVENS
With everything from glaciers to deserts and penguins to gauchos, no wonder Peter Duncan loves the world’s longest country
SOME of the most dramatic locations on Earth are the result of shifting tectonic plates, with volcanic eruptions and earthquakes creating vast, breathtaking mountain ranges. The national parks of North and South America are brimming with geological wonders and the construction of impressive scenic highways tries to get you as close to these landscapes as possible.
Last year I visited California, where parks such as the iconic Yosemite were spectacular but overcrowded. However, in Chile, where I’ve just been, I discovered a more fulfilling and freespirited experience, far away from the hordes.
Chile is the longest, skinniest country on the planet, skirting the ocean to the west of the Andes. It contains enormous, newly designated national parks such as Pumalin and others being currently upgraded for tourism like Alerce Andino. Beautiful and relaxed luxury hotels such those under the Tierra name lie close or within these parks and national reserves.
In the north near the Tierra Atacama hotel, you can walk on crunchy salt-plain deserts populated by pink flamingos, and sip a pisco sour (the country’s much celebrated national drink) while watching a beautiful southern hemisphere sunset.
A walk in the sandy La Luna valley feels more like being on Mars, which is appropriate because at night, due to its altitude, the vast Atacama becomes an astronomer’s paradise. A trip to the observatory is a definite must as the clear skies allow you to gaze in wonder at the complexity of the heavens. But it’s not all barren desert as near Machuca you can amble beside the Rio Grande in a lush green valley abundant with wildlife.
Way down in the south of the country the terrain is very different and the Explora lodge in the heart of the Torres Del Paine Park is built next to a glistening freshwater lake. The dawn on a clear day reveals a panorama so impressive that you can easily imagine you are living on the edge of the world. A trek to the ice field takes you past bright blue glaciers which stick out of the water like alien crystal shards. A more strenuous 12-mile round trip up through the French Valley is well worth the effort, and you could get as lucky as I did and spot a spectacular avalanche – while enjoying a delicious picnic lunch.
If your legs get tired, you can ride with a gaucho or glide across the lake in the hotel catamaran. In the middle of Chile a few hours from the port town of Puerto Montt is Tierra Chiloe. Set on the edge of a peninsula, it’s a deeply calming location next to wetlands that offer extraordinary birdwatching opportunities. A cruise on the hotel’s elegant boat, the Willache, takes you to wild, deserted islands where you can spot porpoises and penguins.
All the establishments I visited have delicious fresh produce, helpful friendly staff and guides who quickly become your best friend. You can learn from them about the indigenous people of Chile such as the Mapuche and the impact of the Spanish colonisers and, of course, the volatile and divided politics of Chile’s more recent history.
Santiago is the capital, and I stayed at the stylish Luciano K Art Deco hotel with its original 1920s lift still functioning right up to the rooftop terrace. Located very close to the vibrant area of Bellavista, there are interesting places all within walking distance. A ride up the funicular railway to gaze over the city’s six million inhabitants alongside statues of Popes and the Virgin Mary should feature in your itinerary, and a visit to the compact Museo Nacional Belles Artes is worth a trip just for the building, but you’ll also see some very good contemporary art.
Just a 90-minute drive away is vibrant Valparaiso, an arty town full of the shapes and sounds of creative locals. It is a sea port and the shore is packed with colourful containers that seem to inspire the
bright murals adorning the walls of the back streets and alleyways. Go in the evening when the many bars and restaurants are liveliest.
Between these two great cities of Chile are many valleys of famous wine producers. I stayed at the Matetic Vineyard, witnessing close up the secret art of creating a sparkling wine.
If you want to experience the whole of the country in one holiday, it’s easiest to take internal flights with local airlines such as Latam. You can drive independently, but that often involves booking ferries, and constantly checking the weather in case of landslides that can wipe out roads in an instant. Ten years ago a volcano near the town of Chaiten popped up seemingly out of nowhere and the surrounding area took years to recover from the devastation.
My main reason for visiting Chile was to meet my son, who was working as a chef at Lago Yelcho. While he cooked, I went fly-fishing, trekked up the Volcano Chaiten and went off track to reach the hanging Yelcho Glacier. This part of Patagonia is accessible but still quite remote. It will no doubt soon be thriving, so do take a trip before the crowds discover it.