A taste of Barcelona
YOU’VE marvelled at the evolving majesty of the Sagrada Familia and picked your way through the throngs on Las Ramblas but feel you’ve barely scratched the surface. You’re hungry and you know that to develop a true taste of Barcelona you’ll need to eat like a local.
But how do you pick the right spot when there’s a tapas bar on every corner? How much food should you order at a time? And why is the tomato bread served by bartenders across the city so damn tasty?
The answers to these questions were delivered and weightier matters discussed when we accepted an invitation to join Devour Barcelona food tours.
First came the Tapas, Taverns & History tour, that blended a mixture of food, wine and light exercise to propel us round the city’s Gothic Quarter.
We met our guide Victoria near the cathedral and were given some background info before being spirited to La Pineda for La Hora del Vermut, an old Spanish custom that basically serves as an excuse to indulge at any point in the day.
Given the West of Scotland’s questionable relationship with fortified wine, it’s hard to see the tradition being encouraged here but there was something quite civilised about washing down plates of meat and cheese with this caramel-coloured vermouth, an aperitif that resembles a glass of iced cola.
There followed around an hour of milestones during which we learned of the Barri Gotic’s Roman origins, its medieval transformation and later struggles as the city expanded and the rich moved out of these cramped streets.
Before we knew it we were at the door of La Plata, a tapas bar that specialises in minimalism and gained the endorsement of the late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain.
There’s no menu as such, just five basic items done well. Some might wince at the prospect of biting into whole fried anchovies but the squeamish need only snap off the head and enjoy the crunchy and tasty fish left behind. The accompaniment, a tomato salad seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil, was a palate-cleansing revelation.
The tour continued through the Placa de Sant Jaume, the site of Catalonia’s presidential seat and a focus for those holding vigil for the region’s political prisoners.
Wandering around the city it’s impossible to miss the abundance of Catalan flags and seeing these few dozen peaceful protesters was a reminder that history is being written on these old alleyways even as tourists clump around hearing tales of medieval sieges and Christopher Columbus.
It was on to dinner at Bodega La Palma where we feasted on pork cheek and a crema catalana pudding before retreating to our hotel.
We were fortunate enough to land a room at the recently-opened Almanac, a high-end boutique hotel on the Gran Via de les Corts. The hotel’s crowning glory is a deceptively large roof terrace, a comfortable haven from the hustle below.
Cocktails are served as patrons enjoy spectacular panoramic views across the Eixample district to the Sagrada Familia at one end and round towards the port, and the hills of Montjuic and Tibidabo.
At a starting rate of 400 euros per night the Almanac is not cheap. But if you’re looking to push the boat out for a special occasion it offers comfort and attention to detail minus the sometimes overwhelming feel of grander ‘name’ hotels.
The following night we embarked on tour two, a more leisurely and indulgent affair presided over by the wonderful Enrique, who met us in El Born, an area of burgeoning popularity which boasts some of the city’s best nightlife. We convened in the fine Bodega La Puntual where patrons gather round wine barrels to chew over the events of the day.
Another vermouth helped us enjoy our black hoof ham croquettes then we were on to venue two, Eldiset, a tapas bar that specialises in wine and which uncorked Enrique’s enthusiasm on the merits of cava versus champagne.
A stroll through El Born’s beguilingly lit alleyways took us along the side of the Picasso Museum as Enrique promised a crescendo on which to end our night.
We alighted at the Pla de la Garsa for dinner and settled into a corner table where the food arrived in one glorious wave after another.
Plates of cheese, that tomato bread and roasted vegetables softened us up for a grand finale of beef cheeks that melted insolently on the tongue.
An encore of almond biscuits and sweet wine brought us to a woozy conclusion and our tour dissolved on the most cordial of terms.
Bellies full, hearts content and minds a little clearer on what makes this wonderful city tick.