Mesmerised by magical Murcia
For an all-action break or just lazing in the sun, Spain’s Costa Calida is a hidden gem that never fails to sparkle
AFTER about ten minutes I was beginning to bitterly regret my (admittedly, wine induced) proclamation that I’d be just fine with the traditional bicycle thank you very much.
I mean, Sir Chris Hoy’s from Scotland, isn’t he? How hard could it be?
Not for me the super-fast ‘snowflake’ electric bikes chosen by my travelling companions. No. I’ll do it the old-fashioned way.
So, as the first hill loomed above the spectacular town of Mazarron and the beads of sweat slowly began to form on my brow, I pushed on… just as three of my companions whizzed past me, all whirring dynamos and carefree (and sweatfree) expressions.
Still, as my limbs ached and my lungs screamed for mercy, it was impossible not to enjoy the astonishing view as we pedalled (well, at least I did) through the hills and valleys in this spectacular part of Murcia on Spain’s enchanting Costa Calida.
For this really is the place to go if you are looking for action and outdoor pursuits. In a frenetic 24 hours I managed to pack in cycling, snorkelling, jet skiing – and a ninemile, early morning hike through the mountains.
Yes, it’s a cliche, but Murcia really is a hidden gem. Often shunned in favour of the more traditional Costas, Calida has so much to offer, whether you are the energetic type or you just want to relax sunbathing on the area’s long, sandy – and very quiet – beaches. With more than 300 days of sunshine Costa Calida (meaning the warm coast) is rich in everything; culture, architecture, food – and friendly locals.
With direct flights (I flew Ryanair) from Scotland to Murcia International
Airport or nearby Alicante, Costa Calida is so accessible.
Once you touch down on the sunkissed tarmac, everything you need is within easy reach.
I spent a night in the main city of Murcia in the fabulous and fashionable Hotel Tryp Rincon de Pepe.
Murcia is a bustling place and Plaza Cardenal Belluga is the city’s architectural showpiece, where the ornate cathedral, with its mash-up of styles from Gothic to baroque, and the colourful 18th-century Palacio Episcopal stand in striking contrast to the modern 1990s Ayuntamiento (city hall) annex by architect Rafael Moneo.
Just along the coast is Cabo de Palos, a wonderful harbour with a spectacular beach and the most amazing lighthouse. You can climb the 350 steps to the top. It’s not for the vertigo-afflicted but the view is breathtaking – literally. Remember to book in advance though.
Lunch was at the wonderful Miramar Restaurant looking onto the harbour. Here I tried the traditional Murcian dish Arroz al Caldero. It’s famous on the coast, where beachside restaurants cook up pot after pot. It’s a soupy rice dish, made with a flavourful fish and shellfish stock and a blend of ñora peppers. Washed down with ice-cold white wine, it is a joy.
After lunch, it was time for a spot of snorkelling in the crystal-clear waters. This coastline does boast an astonishing variety of sea life that is just a short boat trip away.
It’s a mesmerising, relaxing (and nicely cooling) way to spend a couple of hours.
After an action-packed day it was on to nearby Los Alcazares for a late-night meal at the fantastic – if not a little quirky– El Balneario de la Encarnacion Hotel. This is a very traditional hotel with a courtyard which boasts a spectacular display of flora and fauna.
Puerto de Mazarron, a little farther along the coast, is a Mecca for water sports and other outdoor enthusiasts most of the year because of its perfect climate. To get the blood pumping, try hiring a jet ski from Noranautic. You’ll find them on the beach.
The area is also very popular with hikers and we enjoyed a morning hike around the protected area of Sierra de Las Moreras.
And it was a hike. Nine miles before lunch, but the effort was worth it simply because of the remarkable views.
A couple of tips. Dress for a challenging walk and book an early excursion to beat the full glare of the sun.
A wonderful buffet lunch with copious amounts of locally produced wine at the La Meseguera restaurant at the Hotel Playa Grande was just the job to ease away the aches and pains picked up during the marathon hike.
Thirty miles along the coast lies the city of Lorca. It’s a must visit if you are interested in history.
Lorca Castle – the fortress of the sun – dominates the skyline of this impressive city and the Synagogue should also be on your to-do list.
Our final stop on the trip was the fabulous seaport of Aguilas with its scenic palm tree-lined promenade. After a lazy afternoon boat trip, on which we were treated to an impromptu Spanish sing-song from a group of ladies of a certain age (they sang for the entire one hour trip and had all the passengers joining in), it was off to the spectacular Zoco del Mar restaurant set high in the hills overlooking the harbour.
We enjoyed dozens of mouthwatering local dishes which seemed to appear from the kitchen conveyor belt-style before, bellies full, we made our winding way down the steps towards the harbour lights below.
Yes, magical Murcia has something for everyone. If you are thinking of the Costas this summer, then give Calida a try. You won’t regret it.
And, as for my hopes of emulating the great Sir Chris Hoy... I’m already looking out the sunscreen and Lycra for this year.
Bring it on!
For more information, please visit www.murciaturistica.es/en or look for #VisitMurcia on social media.