Home in on London chic
Stylish Mayfair pad is perfect base for Graeme Croser to enjoy city break
AS the weights and pulleys of the birdcage elevator worked their magic it felt like my ascent through the 100-year-old lift shaft was propelling me back in time.
Twin doors of my time machine then slid aside and I landed back in the 21st Century with the gentlest and most convenient of bumps. Or a tap on my smartphone to be precise.
The entry to my apartment was contactless, a single click unlocking the door to my retreat from the post-Covid reality outside. A trip to London is often an exhilarating experience but if you’re not careful it can be plain exhausting.
Amid the onset of new pandemic-related anxieties – face masks and social distancing are patently not essentials of London life – the need for a safe haven is essential.
Having a hotel room to retreat to offers a degree of sanctuary but, let’s be honest, it never quite feels like home.
So for my latest trip to the Big Smoke I’d switched up to a serviced apartment to see if the home-fromhome vibe might make a difference.
The big city break is one of life’s pleasures and, after two years of playing safe, I was determined to dive in. Mayfair, central and chic, was the base for a two-night stay.
Constructed in 1908 as a pied-áterre for gentlemen, 44 Curzon Street by Mansley retains most of its period charm. The rise to my lodgings on the fourth floor was a treat, indulging a childish fascination with the nooks and crannies of old buildings.
The one-bedroom dwelling offered two living areas – a bedroom off to the left and a lounge and dining area. Neatly, the ‘hallway’ doubled as a kitchen. The living space offered a three-piece suite, dining table and chairs plus a small balcony area from where one could watch people hurrying to and from Park Lane and the expanses of Hyde Park beyond. A proper chill-out zone.
Location-wise it was perfect. Almost directly under the property sits Shepherd Market, a loosely connected collection of shops, hairdressers, bars and restaurants that serves up some casual relief away from the more exclusive haunts favoured by the Mayfair set.
And with Hyde Park and its smaller sibling Green Park round the corner, there was ample scope to run or walk, depending on how I chose to fulfil my daily steps quota.
I stretched my legs twice, once with a scenic loop round Hyde Park’s Serpentine lake and another more meandering route through Green Park down towards Buckingham Palace and Westminster beyond.
Food-wise I’d planned ahead and booked lunch in the tiny Titu Japanese restaurant, a space that accommodates barely a dozen covers – the better to focus on attention to detail in both the kitchen and front of house.
The restaurant runs with a small plate menu and the five-piece gyoza dream starter, containing the full range of chicken, beef, seafood and vegetable, set the tone for a perfect afternoon graze.
The other culinary highlight was an impromptu visit to Misto, a cosy Italian offering a wonderful crab ravioli special at £18. I suspect there wasn’t better value to be found in this particular neighbourhood. The same would apply to the apartment itself. London hotel rates can be eye-watering but the apartment offers a costeffective alternative that provides flexibility around meal times and downtime alike.
And if you’re looking for another cost-effective hack, it’s possible to buy a full extra day in the city by travelling home overnight.
In the spirit of vacation experimentation I decided to round off the trip with a return journey from Euston on the Caledonian Sleeper.
There was an element of apprehension as I entered my cabin but, pleasingly, the lower bunk was able to accommodate my full 6ft 4in sleeping silhouette, my slumber aided by a trip to the Club Car for a hearty supper of haggis, neeps and tatties with a couple of glasses of red wine. There was some entertaining company on board too. A doubletake confirmed that, yes indeed, Graham Norton had swapped the talk show sofa for a booth in the Club Car.
The Sleeper underwent a full refurbishment in 2019, with the relaunch offering the experience of a ‘hotel on wheels’. There are four grades of travel. The reclinable seat option is easiest on the pocket and there are Classic, Club and Suite rooms if a bed is required.
I was allocated a Club option room, which meant I got my own en-suite toilet and shower compartment. Despite (or maybe because of) the rocking and rolling, sleep came surprisingly easy and I woke up in time for a quick breakfast before disembarking at Glasgow Central.
Birdcage elevators and overnight trains. Old fashioned perhaps but also eco-friendly. And by rebooting my London experience I’ve established a blueprint for future city breaks. l Prices at 44 Curzon Street start from £190 per night for a one-bedroom apartment. Mansley offer a range of properties in London, Cheltenham, Edinburgh and Inverness. Mail readers can benefit from a 10 per cent discount by using code Press10 at www.bymansley.com. Prices for Comfort Seats on the Caledonian Sleeper start from £45, with Classic Rooms from £140, www.sleeper.scot