Island that has it all
Culture, history and golden beaches to rival those in the Caribbean – Rob McGibbon reckons Sardinia is the...
OUR jolly, mahogany-tanned captain glides the dingy towards some rocks, then directs his group of excited day-trippers to head for an indiscernible path between tall reeds. I lead the way with fearless vigour, and a few minutes later we emerge at a beach of cinematic beauty, with alabaster-white sand and a glimmering sea of the palest emerald.
But the desert island spell is broken instantly by a vexed Italian woman striding towards us, clutching a walkie-talkie and snapping orders in comically accented English. ‘NO stop! NO towel! NO sit! Walk!’ She then instructs our bemused troop to follow her.
It’s business as usual at Budelli island’s Cavaliere beach, a stretch of sand so precious that it requires security guards.
Budelli is one of more than 60 islands that make up La Maddalena Archipelago, a protected national marine park just off the coast of northern Sardinia. The entire area is gorgeous and has been a magnet for flotillas of sea-faring tourists for decades.
However, mindless souvenir hunters have stolen so much sand, shells and stones over the years that guards are now stationed on a few ecologically fragile beaches during peak season. For removing these irreplaceable treasures, fines can hit £2,600.
I first went to Sardinia in 1977 and have rediscovered it in recent years as a perfect European family holiday destination. It has everything – weather, sea, cuisine, culture, history and beaches that match the Caribbean.
You’ll be sure of a warm welcome wherever you go, and it’s only a two-hour flight away.
We are here to discover the lesser-visited north, and are using the hotels of Delphina Resorts, the island’s oldest hotel group, as stepping stones. Delphina has eight coastal properties here and is still owned by the two families who founded it 30 years ago.
Our first stay is at Capo d’Orso, with 80 rooms set in a woodland leading to the sea. A boat trip is the only way to appreciate the beauty of the Sardinian seas, and our next hotel has the perfect answer. Valle dell’Erica has its own elegant 1927 wooden sailing boat called La Pulcinella exclusively for guests.
It’s aboard La Pulcinella that we visit Budelli and cruise around other islands, dropping anchor in bays to swim in the warm waters.
A delicious lunch of seafood pasta and crisp local Vermentino white wine is served on board. On the way home, our deckhand flags down a passing Algida branded speedboat (Italy’s version of Wall’s ice cream), so we can buy Cornettos. A truly unforgettable day.
Most of our time staying at Erica is spent on the serene Licciola beach, or in its spa and saltwater swimming pools.
As we say goodbye to Sardinia, a member of the reception staff says: ‘Stessa spiaggia, stesso mare.’ She explains that this is a typical Italian summer farewell, imparting a simple wish to see you again next year at ‘the same beach, the same sea’.
Well, if the holiday gods shine on us, we will definitely be there again – and promise not to steal any of it.
Seven nights’ B&B at Capo d’Orso from £959pp, or half-board at Valle dell’Erica from £1,019pp (delphina.it).