• My City Kathmandu, Nepal
SUNIL MAHARJAN DESCRIBES THE BLEND OF OLD AND NEW, CULTURE AND COLOUR, THAT MAKES HIS NEPALESE HOME SO SPECIAL
How long have you lived in Kathmandu?
I was born in Kathmandu Valley, but went away to boarding school in Darjeeling, India, when I was six. After secondary school I returned for a year before going to business school in Colorado, where I spent eight years. I moved back to Kathmandu four years ago; it was like seeing the city with fresh eyes.
What makes your city unique?
Kathmandu is an ancient city, but it opened up to the world less than a century ago. What makes it unique is the blend between old and new. There are aged mud and brick houses alongside tall concrete buildings. Traditionally dressed women walk down the alleys with their young daughters, who are dressed in a more Western style. There are modern cafés and restaurants sitting right next to temples that were built hundreds of years ago. It is more unusual now, but you can still see green rice fields between residential areas.
What’s it like in February?
At this time of year Kathmandu is cold. The strange thing is you’ll need layers indoors but when you’re outside you can lose them and enjoy the warmth of the sun. The newer concrete houses don’t have any sort of insulation, but we get nine or ten hours of sunlight, and winter afternoons can be spent on your terrace eating oranges, pomelos and peanuts. By the end of February, we’re looking forward to Holi (a Hindu spring festival) and warmer days. Trekkers begin to plan their journeys into the mountains – in March and April trails are snow-laden, and filled with rhododendrons.
What time of day do you most enjoy and why?
Mornings in Kathmandu are serene and almost mystical. If you step out early enough, you’ll catch mostly women on the streets, offering prayers and burning incense at the many temples. The aroma of incense, the chiming of temple bells and the bustling of feet fill the beginning of each new day.
What’s the nature like?
Kathmandu is like a bowl, with the great snow-capped mountains to the north, and hills all around. There are »
*There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month, we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day or to rediscover the charms of a city closer to you, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel.
a lot of houses being built, turning Kathmandu into a sort of concrete jungle, but every house has a terrace where you can view the omnipresent mountains.
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
There aren’t many parks, but if I get time at the weekend, I hike up one of the hills. The Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park is my favourite because it brings back fond memories of my childhood, picking berries and enjoying the wild rhododendrons.
What about the colours of your city?
Kathmandu is full of colour. Women wear saris and kurtas – just two of the many colourful cultural dresses – but it’s during its many festivals that the city is at its most colourful. Holi (the festival of colours) falls on 1 March and and it’s traditional to mix coloured powders with water, throw them at people and drench each other. It’s a celebration of the arrival of spring.
Tell us about the people who live there
The people you come across in the streets, restaurants and markets are generally down-to-earth folk. If you start a conversation, you’ll soon find that people really like to talk, they love it if you use a few local phrases.
Where do you gather with friends?
In the south end of town, we meet up in the Jhamsikhel, or Jhamel, area which has lots of beautiful restaurants and cafés. In the north, Thamel is the place to be. It’s really vibrant in the evenings, with lots of places to grab a drink and enjoy live music or dinner.
Tell us about eating out in your city?
Various different cuisines and cafés are popping up everywhere. But Nepalis will always love rice, momos (stuffed dumplings) and chow mein – and there are hundreds of different ways these are made and eaten. If you want to try Nepalese food, go to the Thakali kitchen in Jawalakhel. It’s traditional and delicious.
What’s your favourite way to get around?
I ride my motorbike everywhere. It’s quick, cheap and convenient. The roads can be a bit chaotic, though. When I have friends visiting, we take a cab.
What types of shop do you most like to visit?
I love curio shops because I’ve been a collector all my life. I can never get enough of tiny carved antiques. I also love the little art galleries in the small alleys. The paintings they sell aren’t masterpieces, but they’re all wonderful depictions of life in Nepal. It’s normal
“The aroma of incense, the chiming of temple bells and the bustling feet fill the beginning of each new day”
practice here to haggle, even for locals. The shops in Thamel are good for souvenirs such as hemp bags, warm knits, colourful Nepali recycled paper diaries or calendars, as well as reasonably priced trekking gear.
Where do you like to escape to?
I love Bhaktapur. It’s another ancient city in the Valley, and it really takes you back in time. Durbar Square is magnificent but there is even more beauty to be found in exploring the tiny stone alleys.
What is your best discovery about the city?
Going to the Garden of Dreams and basking in the sun or reading a book. There’s an entry fee, but it’s worth every penny for a quiet garden in the middle of the city.
What do you miss most when you’ve been away?
The weather. It is perfect. Winters are fairly cold and life is so much better around a fire. Spring is crisp – trees come out of their slumber. Summer days are hot and they go hand in hand with the monsoons, when it can be slightly gloomy, but it smells fresh. Autumn arrives in September, and it is absolutely unbelievable.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
When I returned, I was surprised by the way people drove. There are no lanes or traffic lights. Somehow, though, people manage to stay out of each other’s way!
If you could change one thing about the city, what would it be?
We have such beautiful natural resources, but not enough effort is made in educating people to take care of them. An effective campaign about cleanliness would be the start of a new era for tourism in Nepal.
How has the city recovered from the 2015 earthquake?
It was a very difficult time. As well as the loss of lives and homes, we saw the demise of many heritage sites, and sadly there aren’t many builders with knowledge of traditional building skills, so restoration projects have taken a long time. But daily life is back to normal.
Where would you recommend visitors to stay?
A traditional guest house in Patan – there’s no better way to see locals leading their daily lives. I love Cosy Nepal (cosynepal.com); they build beautiful Newari houses. For something traditional yet lavish in the heart of Kathmandu, you could try Maya Manor Boutique Hotel ( ktmgh.com/mayamanorhotel).
What keeps you in Kathmandu and where else would you like to live?
My parents live in Kathmandu, I was born here, I belong here. However, I’ve lived in Austin, Texas, and it’s a great city. The parks, festivals, food and lifestyle were all awesome there. »