My City Fez
TARA STEVENS TAKES US ON A TOUR OF THE ANCIENT AND MAGICAL MOROCCAN CITY SHE CALLS HOME
*There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month, we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day or to rediscover the charms of a city closer to you, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some vicarious travel.
How long have you lived in Fez?
I’ve lived here full-time for about three years, but I’ve been coming on a regular basis for almost a decade. Originally I’m from Pembrokeshire, but I’ve been an expat pretty much all my adult life. I started out in Copenhagen, then Puerto Rico, then Barcelona, where I spent nearly 20 years.
Tell us what makes your city unique.
I think it’s fair to say there is nowhere quite like Fez! And while at times it can be downright infuriating, it feels so ancient and unchanged, it’s an incredible privilege to live here. When I came here, it felt like stepping back in time 500 years. But now, modern cities like Barcelona can feel quite alien after a few months spent here.
The Fez medina is the largest pedestrianised zone in the world. It’s marvellous not to hear cars every waking second. It’s the kind of place that makes you slow right down, because there isn’t that much to do here. We don’t have hundreds of bars and restaurants and the social scene is small and low key. I’ve found it an excellent place for getting lots of work done.
What’s it like in September?
Come September, the landscape is very dry, almost lunar-looking in some places, and that casts a very specific kind of light on the ancient city. The colour of Fez traditionally is yellow (I’m not wild about the fashion for painting some of the streets blue at the moment), and the autumn light makes it seem almost golden, which is a really special thing.
What time of day do you most enjoy and why?
At this time of year, my favourite place to be is up on my roof terrace, or indeed any roof terrace facing west, as the sun sets over the medina ( you literally see this fireball disappearing over the rooftops), cracking open a bottle of wine, or sipping on a cocktail.
What’s the nature like?
Fez is technically Mediterranean and the climate is similar to southern Spain. We’re tucked into a bowl on the Saïs plain, so there’s a sense of being hidden away. »
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
Within the city, the Jnan Sbil garden. It’s shady and green, but with all the traditional features of an Islamic garden – tinkling fountains, mosaic tiles, hundreds of roses. I love to spend a couple of hours here, in the shade, reading a book. If I have more time, I drive up to the top of Mount Zalagh, which is always a few degrees cooler and has wonderful views over the city.
Tell us about the light and shades of your city.
The city’s dazzling yellows and golds turn a little softer in autumn – it’s lovely. One of the things I truly adore is the slatted roofs that shade the souks. They mean you end up walking through sunbeams, which is magical.
What about the people who live there?
On the whole, people are incredibly friendly and generous, though you should beware the occasional faux guide who will target anyone that looks a little lost, proffering help and then getting angry when you don’t pay for their efforts. It makes me cross, as it can leave visitors with a less than positive impression of the city, which is a shame. Most people are genuinely curious about who you are and where you come from – the offer of mint tea comes from the heart and these days prices generally aren’t that silly. My advice is to pay what something is worth to you, and you’ve got yourself a bargain. Moroccans are delighted if you show up with just a little bit of Darija (Moroccan Arabic): basic greetings ( salaam aleikum) and thank you ( shukran) will get you a long way.
Where are your favourite places to go with friends?
As expats, we welcome the addition of restaurants like Maison Moi Anan (fabulous regional Thai food – there’s only so much tagine one can handle), or garden restaurants like the Jardin des Biehn, or the Ruined Garden, all in the medina. There aren’t so many bars in Fez, though we do enjoy going for posh drinks at the rooftop bar of the Hotel Sahrai, or at the Palais Faraj.
Tell us more about the food and eating out.
The traditional foods are tagine, couscous, pastilla, harira and bessara ( both soups), sardines in chermoula, brochettes, cornes de gazelle (sweet pastry horns), oranges sprinkled with cinnamon, and other treats. If I want traditional Moroccan, I go to the lunchtime street food market at Achabine, which also has really good, really cheap local restaurants. If that seems a bit too manic, the Ruined Garden does a wonderful interpretation of local street food, and Café Clock does a legendary camel burger.
“Most people are genuinely curious about who you are – the offer of mint tea comes from the heart”
What’s your favourite way to get around?
In the medina you haven’t really got much choice. Two legs! Elsewhere I drive or take a petit taxi (small cab).
What’s the shopping like?
Like treasure hunting. I love roaming the souks knowing I’ll end up taking home some random curio – my last treasure was a vintage wedding belt brocaded in gold and beads; it turns a little black dress into something quite fabulous. I bought and renovated a house, so I’m always on the lookout for vintage furniture, cedar-wood doors and wrought iron. If you’re in the market for a leather jacket, you can get a great deal – either something you bring with you and get copied at the tanneries, or buy off the peg and have it altered to fit on the Ta’laa S’ghira. It’s great for tribal carpets, yellow leather babouches (traditional slippers) and beaten metal lanterns ( head for the copper beaters souk at Place Seffarine).
Where do you like to escape to?
My favourite day escape is to head up to Dar el Mandar (darelmandarfes.com), for a day of lounging by the pool, snoozing in a camel-haired Berber tent and feasting on Berber cooking, washed down with glasses of local rosé. I also adore my weekly hammam, an ancient bathing and beauty ritual that’s guaranteed to rejuvenate, no matter how crazy your week has been.
What has been your best discovery about your city?
I love a prowl around the second-hand-furniture souk in the Mellah (the Jewish quarter), which produces some extraordinary finds. It’s also worth knowing that many of the riads have rooftops where you can go for a drink and a view even if you’re not staying: Dar Roumana, Riad Fez and Karawan Riad are all great.
What do you miss most if you’ve been away?
My housekeeper Rachida, who is like a mother to me, although we’re the same age, and my little cat, Tiger.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
Just about everything. The whole place is so very ‘other’, and in the words of a good friend: “It’s a true long-haul destination on a short-haul flight.”
If you could change one thing about the city, what would it be?
Fez is an extraordinary place to live, but it can be intense and at times a bit claustrophobic. Regular trips back to Europe are essential.
What keeps you here and where else would you live?
I run two businesses here – the Courtyard Kitchen and Anajam Home – so I’m very much committed. If I wasn’t here, I’d love to live in South East Asia, probably Laos, for a couple of years. »