MY CITY* JOHANNESBURG
LOCAL JO BUITENDACH IS PASSIONATE ABOUT HER SOUTH AFRICAN CITY, ITS RESILIENT PEOPLE AND VIBRANT ENERGY
* There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day or to rediscover the charms of a city closer to you, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel.
How long have you lived in the city?
I am Johannesburg born and raised, and have spent most of my life here apart from a two-year stint in London when I was 18. I am completely mad about Joburg (as the locals call it). I particularly love the historic inner city.
Tell us what makes your city unique.
Johannesburg is frenetic, vibrant and a little bit addictive. I find people either love it or just don’t get it. The city was founded in 1886 as a small gold-mining town, and has drawn in people ever since. Joburg is one of the largest cities in the world without a major water source, so instead of our bridges crossing a river, they cross railway tracks. It’s a business and trading centre, and is seen as a place of hope and opportunity across the African continent. Because of this, you can hear, see and taste music, languages, fabric and food from all over Africa. Johannesburg is also a place of extremes – extremely wealthy suburbs border poorer communities living in sprawling townships. Apartheid had a huge and negative impact on our city but, despite this, hope and light shine out.
What does it look like in February?
February in Joburg is summer! The sun is shining and it’s hot, but late-afternoon thunderstorms are common, so expect a brief but spectacular downpour.
What time of day do you most enjoy?
Sunsets in Africa are dramatic. I love driving across the Nelson Mandela Bridge in the evening. The view of the sun setting over the city is magnificent.
What’s the nature like?
Johannesburg is often called “the largest man-made forest in the world”. Our suburban areas are covered by a canopy of vivid green trees, planted when the city was planned. We’re famous for our purple jacaranda trees that bloom in spring. As a contrast, Joburg’s natural environment is actually much drier grasslands and deep red soil. We also have many dusty yellow hills on the southern side of the city, which are the remnants of the gold-mining industry. »
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
I live a short walk from the Johannesburg Botanical Garden and Emmarentia Dam. It’s such a great space – my favourite part is the designated dog-walking area, where you can meet many a cute pup and capture a great photo of the city skyline rising up in the distance.
Describe the colours of your city.
Johannesburg’s nickname is the “City of Gold,” and I think Johannesburg is golden. Whether it’s the golden shades of the setting sun, the dusty yellows of the dry grasslands or old mine dumps. The soil is iron-rich and deep red, and the sky is an intense blue.
Tell us about eating out in Joburg.
Johannesburg is a migrant city and our food is migrant food, brought by the many people who’ve travelled here from all over the world and call it home. For great Indian and Pakistani street food, the Fordsburg Market happens every Saturday night. We have an Ethiopian Quarter downtown where you can grab an amazing (and very strong) coffee, before indulging in some injera and wat (flatbread and stew). And for a pan-African feast, you have to visit the Yeoville Dinner Club, where the mostly vegetarian long-table experience will not disappoint.
What’s your favourite way to get around?
I love walking and think it’s the best way to experience the city, its sounds and energy, and to meet its communities. That said, Johannesburg does have some safety issues and I wouldn’t recommend walking the city without a local or some very good insider knowledge. Our public transport system is either a public bus or train, or a very characterful minibus system that we call a taxi – you’ll definitely need to ask locals how to use these options. Alternatively, many visitors to Johannesburg get around using Uber.
What’s the shopping like?
Johannesburg has some great shopping. If high-end is your thing, we have all the big international designer labels in Sandton City Mall, located in “Africa’s richest square mile.” But I like to support locally produced products wherever possible and we have some talented local designers. For clothing, The Space (thespace.co. za) in Rosebank showcases a wide range of local designs. Johannesburg also has some great furniture and décor designers, such as Dokter and Misses (dokterandmisses.com) and Anatomy (anatomydesign. co.za). My favourite thing to buy in Joburg is traditional fabric and blankets. Many different cultures
“You can hear, see and taste music, languages, fabric and food from all over Africa”
in Southern Africa have their own fabric, beading and blankets, and Joburg’s inner city is the best place to shop for these. Our most well known fabric is called shweshwe and is absolutely beautiful – a printed, dyed cotton that comes in many designs and colours.
Where do you like to escape to?
The cool thing about Johannesburg is that you only have to drive a few hours and you can go on a safari. The Pilanesberg National Park is a great place to get away from the city for a day trip, and it’s home to the Big Five ( lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino).
What has been your best discovery about Joburg?
The people! The communities, specifically in the inner city, are the most resilient, strong people who face adversity every day yet remain friendly and welcoming. You can expect to have a conversation or two with Uber drivers and locals that you meet along the way!
What do you miss most if you’ve been away?
The energy. On a good day, the vibe in our city is palpable – fun, warm, happy and celebratory – you can absolutely feel it and definitely get swept up in it.
What would surprise a newcomer to Johannesburg?
Less than an hour away, you’ll find the Cradle of Humankind, an area that has produced more early human fossils than anywhere on Earth. The Cradle has a couple of sites open to the public, including the Unesco-listed Sterkfontein Caves (maropeng.co.za).
If you could change one thing about the city, what would it be?
Johannesburg is a great city, but it’s not without its issues. Apartheid left us with some serious problems including economic and spatial inequality. The appalling Apartheid system ended less than 30 years ago and we’re still trying to heal. Crime is also an issue and although I think you can still travel here safely, you need to be street smart.
Where would you recommend staying?
Joburg has something for everyone. For high end, the Sandton area has some very luxurious hotels, including the Saxon and AtholPlace, while the Four Seasons The Westcliff has amazing views. The Melville area has some great guesthouses within walking distance of the main street and restaurants. And I love Satyagraha House in Orchards (see personal tour).
What keeps you in your city and where else would you like to live?
My heart pumps Joburg. It’s not perfect, but it’s home and I love it. It’s given me so many amazing opportunities. If I didn’t live here, I think that I’d live in London, my second favourite city. »