Where the magic happens Christmas is extra special with markets and music under Vienna’s twinkling lights
THERE
is simply no other city in the world that does Christmas like Vienna. Its grandeur is amplified when bedecked with lights, decorations and markets selling mulled wine and crafts. Ice rinks, choirs, Christmas trees everywhere . . . even the most miserly Scrooge will be won over.
You don’t want to leave it too late to plan your visit. In fact, good hotels and the city’s wonderful winter concerts sell out as early as September.
The tourist board rounded up a handful of journalists from all over the world to experience Vienna during the festive season. I was the only Brit in a group in which Shanghai, Dubai, Germany, France and Brazil were all represented. And after our four days in the city we all agreed you couldn’t find anywhere better on earth to get into the spirit.
Our trip starts with a cookery class at a wonderful restaurant/cookery school in the city.
Brothers Karl and Leo Wrenkh serve up a masterclass of a traditional Viennese Christmas meal, from soup, through a fish course, meat and Christmas baking.
Attheendyougettoeat the fruits of your labour. Very tasty it proves, too, and good value at 48 euros for one-and-a-half hours’ tuition and all food and drink (check it out at wiener-kochsalon. com).
Great food is a recurring theme.
From the opulent Le Ciel restaurant in our stunning hotel, to a modest veggie restaurant, Tian Bistro, in the trendy Spittelberg district, we eat superbly.
You’ll find many quirky pop-up restaurants around the city.
But there is one special place which I thoroughly enjoy.
Vollpension Wien is an inter-generational coffee house serving everything from cooked breakfasts to lunch and dinner.
What makes it so special? It’s run by a group of grannies who do all the cooking and serving. It’s a real hoot.
On the walls are photos of our lovely hosts in their heyday and it’s so popular there’s a queue to get in!
It just shows you cannae beat a bit of a natter with a granny and a hearty meal at a bargain price (vollpense.at)!
We try some curling one afternoon at the Museumsquartier and also visit some great shops with Lucie – a New Yorker now living in Vienna who offers a shopping tour (shoppingwithlucie.com).
We concentrate on District 7, home to many great vintage shops.
That’s one of the things that really strikes me on this trip to Vienna – how it manages to retain the grandeur of an old Imperial city while also flaunting a cutting-edge side; very 21st century.
It’s a decidedly cool destination.
There are lots of highlights but if I had to choose one it would be the Christmas in Vienna gala concert.
Everyone gets dressed up for the glittering occasion and the music is simply wonderful.
In addition to renowned international Opera stars we had the pleasure of hearing the Vienna Boys Choir. Tickets sell out in hours so book ahead (christmasinvienna.at)
If you want a real treat stay at the Grand Hotel Wien. It’s close to the Opera on The Ring – Vienna’s main avenue
– and is a real Grand Dame of a hotel.
The service is exceptional and the 205 rooms are spacious and ultra-comfortable, boasting every facility.
Dating back to 1870, the décor is lavish – all very Viennese.
A good money-saving tip as you explore the city is to buy the Vienna Pass (currently 21.90 euros for 72 hours). Once purchased you can enjoy free entry into over 60 of Vienna’s most popular attractions and museums, including the Imperial Palace, Schönbrunn Zoo and the Natural History Museum.
You also have unlimited use of the Vienna Sightseeing tours, which you can hop on and off, and there’s an optional travelcard to explore the city, valid across the tram, tube and bus networks.
Not to mention a free guidebook and fast-track entry to a number of Vienna’s top attractions.
Though not cheap, Vienna is such a quality ‘product’ that it proves money well spent.
It’s certainly no more expensive than London and there are bargains to be had by choosing set menus and using public transport.
There wasn’t one thing about Vienna at Christmas I wouldn’t recommend.
Only trouble is, by the time you get home you might need an elasticated waistband!