Dream destinations at home and abroad
They lean upwards to kiss the clouds. To the west, Deansgate Square South Tower, tallest UK building outside of London. To the east, slimline Beetham Tower, the thinnest of skyscrapers, flatpacked to 555 feet.
They will soon be joined by more gleaming high-rises in Manchester’s ever-expanding, 21st-century skyline. Welcome to Manctopia.
So, what does this sweeping gentrification hold for a proud city, famous for football, music and textiles? Mancunians may be divided, but there’s no questioning the touristy appeal of the Manc-hattan skyline, as seen from the floor-to-ceiling windows of Hyatt House Manchester, itself a shiny, new landmark.
The view from the 18th floor is breathtaking. Mad for it? You bet. Such is the architectural eye candy that it becomes a guilty pleasure to leave the curtains open 24/7, falling asleep under a sea of tiny, twinkling lights, waking to nature’s alarm clock, a dazzling sheet of sunshine.
Spotless and stylish, Hyatt House’s apartments could be described as a home from home but, after months spent working from home in a smallish flat, it feels more like an upgrade. For a quiet, socially-distanced night in, the kitchen has everything you need: hobs, fridge, dishwasher, microwave, coffee-maker, toaster, and pots and pans.
The living space has comfy couches, and wall-mounted TV, as does the bedroom, which also has built-in wardrobes and modern en suite.
Hyatt House is part of The Lume building, in the university district.the Lume is also home to Hyatt Regency, which has a further 212 rooms. Guests – we all know the drill by now – must wear masks as they come and go.
After a cooked breakfast in The Laureate Restaurant, it’s time to explore. From Hyatt
House, it’s a 20-minute walk along Oxford Road into the city centre, but first stop is the Imperial War Museum North at Salford Quays.
It’s a humbling delve into the past: from the field gun which fired the opening British shots of the First World War, to a copy of Mein Kampf signed by Hitler, and twisted steel from the World Trade Center There’s an unarmed, training version of the WE-177 nuclear bomb, and a flamethrower used at sea – on HMS Vindictive during the 1918 Zebrugge Raid.
The personal objects are the most poignant – soldiers’ diaries, masks, torches and scraps of photos.
Salford Quays is also home to BBC and ITV’S Mediacity UK studios, outlet shopping at The Lowry and a plethora of chain dining options, all in the shadow of Manchester United’s Old Trafford stadium.
Now, back into the city by tram. Under six grade two-listed railway arches, sits the Spirit Of Manchester Distillery. There are three copper stills, and the largest can produce one million bottles of gin a year (during the pandemic, production
switched to hand sanitiser, with thousands of bottles going to the NHS).
As a newcomer to the drink, the tasting session is like a fun, first day at gin school. The Signature blend is smooth and citrusy, with a nutty, liquoricey kick.the sage and thymeinfused Wild Spirit, meanwhile, is crisp and creamy. Then there’s The FAC51 Hacienda, a collaboration with musician Peter Hook, which uses lemon and lime peel, in tribute to the acid house scene, as well as locally-sourced dandelion and burdock root.
Next door in Three Little Words restaurant, I enjoy split pea hummus and sourdough crackers for starters, followed by gorgeous lime and coconut chicken, with spicy rice and kale.
There is still time for a stroll around the hipster-friendly Northern Quarter, full of lively bars, cafes and restaurants, and striking street art, with one more culinary treat to come.
Back at the hotel, in the Graduate Bar, I’ve been urged to try one of chef Halima’s pizzas, and within a few bites it’s easy to taste why. Satisfyingly chewy sourdough is topped with Italian cured meats, rocket, and chilli oil. Showstopping stuff.
If there’s one regret on this trip, it’s that Piccadilly Records, famed vinyl emporium, is closed, after Record Store Day. They’ve earned the rest. Next time.
See you again, Manchester – you really hit the heights.
After breakfast this morning we depart for Lerwick, which you are free to explore at your leisure and view the various activities associated with the Up Helly Aa festival which takes place today. Keep an eye out for the various ‘squads’ of ‘guizers’ – groups of about 20 men who choose a theme and dress up as whatever takes their fancy each year. Only one squad, a different one every year, is allowed to dress up as Vikings and are known as ‘ jarls’, the Viking term for Earl. As darkness falls (mid-afternoon at this time of year) the squads begin to assemble for the torchlight parade and eventually a procession of 1,000 men snakes its way through the streets carrying aloft flaming brands of paraffin- soaked hessian and carrying the superbly crafted galley which will then be ceremoniously burned in the spectacular finale to the day’s events. Dinner this evening will be served in a local restaurant. At an agreed time we will be transferred back to our hotels in the evening.
After a leisurely breakfast we depart for a full day tour which, weather permitting, will take us to the northern isles of Yell and Unst. We travel north through Tingwall and Girlsta and past the oil terminal at Sullom Voe, which has transformed life in Shetland over the last 25 years, before arriving at Toft, where the ferry departs for the island of Yell. After a 15- minute crossing we travel across Yell to Gutcher at the north end of the island. After a refreshment stop we make another short ferry crossing to the island of Unst and drive north to Baltasound, our lunch stop. After lunch (not included) we continue northwards again, (about as far north as it is possible to travel by coach in the British Isles) and enjoy the marvellous views from Saxa Vord Hill. Our return route takes us via East Yell and Burravoe. Back at Lerwick we will re- join our ship, which sails at 1730 hrs for Aberdeen. Dinner is served on board.