MILLER & CARTER, ST VINCENT ST, GLASGOW

1 LOCATION

The former commercial bank in the City Centre is within walking distance of the shopping hotspots, the subway and train stations.

2 first Impressions

The cavernous old building is a throwback to the city’s merchant past and looks like it could have been used to film the Gringotts Bank scenes from the Harry Potter films.

3 service

Nicola looks after us, and she is a real gem. Attentive, witty and swift. She also recommended some excellent dishes.

4 menu

Upmarket carnivorism on a menu which glories in its selection of red meat, the prime choice being a long bone tomahawk steak. There are plenty of fish and salad options for those feeling less like a caveman. Sides, such as firecracker crushed peas and stuffed bone marrow, show the depth of options here.

5 TASTE

Miller & Carter is a chain but forget TGIS or Wetherspoons, this is a cut above cookie-cutter franchise food. The buttermilk chicken experience – it’s an experience, not a main meal, apparently – is a tender half-chicken with gravy, a smoky corn fritter, chips and a poached egg, because... well, why not?

6 price

A steak can cost £60 but there are plenty of cheaper options if you’re in for a lighter lunch. Our two mains, two cocktails and two desserts only cost £56.

7 Ambience

While eating, it’s hard not to gaze up at the ostentatious dome umbrellaed far above the diners’ heads. Very fancy!

8 something SPECIAL

Dry January might be over but if you want a drink that isn’t alcoholic then you could do worse than the Seedlip Spice 94 – a 0% “spirit” mixed with ginger beer, orange and rosemary. Delicious.

9 TOILETS

The toilet is in the old bank vault downstairs. Ideal for making a deposit.

10 verdict

Caveman class. 18/20