Blessings from beyond the grave

Before arriving in the city of Zagreb I have to confess my knowledge was restricted to knowing only that it was home to a football team regularly featuring in big European matches.

But it only took a couple of days to realise this cosmopolitan city, with 800,000 inhabitants, is really in the champions league of super places to explore.

I always love a city where it’s easy to navigate and walk around – Zagreb certainly ticks the boxes. It’s also one of those cities where a lot of the must-see locations are all pretty much cheek-by-jowl.and each of these stunning buildings and historical landmarks is a photo opportunity in the waiting.

It’s known as a city of museums, with apparently more per square foot than in any other city in the world. Quite a claim…but it doesn’t mean these are the only attractions. If you are a history buff, though, Zagreb will definitely suit.

The city straddles three distinctive sections.there’s the Upper Town with the Presidential Palace, the twin-spired cathedral, the Croatian parliament complex and the iconic St Mark’s Church with its amazingly colourful tiled roof dating to the 13th Century. Museums and galleries pepper the cobbled streets, many still lit by gas lamps. The Lower Town houses many of the shops, restaurants, cafes, theatres and parks. Locals love sitting in the street cafes – there are dozens – and watching the world go by. I happily followed their example and immersed myself in the visual treats. The third section – New Zagreb – doesn’t rank highly in tourist appeal, predominantly full of tower blocks where many locals live.

For me the Upper and Lower Towns were perfect haunts, day and night. I walked miles discovering big and small squares with architectural gems around many corners.

The main market is the Dolac, with stall holders selling everything from vegetables to handicrafts and T-shirts to confectionery.the Zagreb Eye’s 16th-floor observation deck offers a bird’s eye view of the city and rugged landscape