BEAUTIFUL BUZZING BRISBANE
It’s Australia, but with a tartan twist.
DON’T get me wrong, I really do love Sydney,
However, if I was pushed to declare my favourite Australian city, then, sorry Sydney, but Brizzy gets my vote.
The site of the early settlement of Brisbane was originally called Edinglassie – a name created as a blend of Edinburgh and Glasgow.
The links with Scotland are plentiful – after all, the city is named after Sir Thomas Brisbane from lovely Largs. No wonder I feel at home here!
Brisbane is way more than just the gateway to the delights of sub-tropical Queensland. It’s now a city well worth visiting in its own right and has well and truly come of age.
No longer the poor relation to Sydney and Melbourne, it’s a lively metropolis of two million.
When I was there recently and asked countless locals just why they were so blooming happy with their city, one resounding phrase came out time after time: “It’s just such a liveable city.” And you know what? They’re right. With a vibrant arts mix, great shopping, a superb food scene and award-winning architecture, it’s a cosmopolitan if laid-back metropolis.
It has changed beyond recognition since I visited it first in the ’80s.
Of course, it always helps when the sun shines 300 days a year and the locals make you feel way more than welcome.
A huge civic asset is the Brisbane River, the city’s playground. Joggers and cyclists use the river boardwalk daily, while canoeists take to the water morning and evening.
The outdoor lifestyle the locals enjoy here is par excellence – yep, they’re all sickeningly fit and tanned!
Interspersed with the downtown skyscrapers are elegant traditional buildings, Victorian monuments to a past age.
It was a time when the city was declared capital of Queensland and the 1859 population was a mere 7000.
Back then, they were the wrong side of ‘respectable’ immigrants. These days you’ll be lucky to get in as one of the 1500 people who immigrate to Brisbane each week.
If one place sums up Brisbane, it’s the South Bank.
The area had a massive redevelopment and in 1992, this 40-acre urban oasis in the middle of the city opened to great acclaim.
Pathways meander through floral displays – public artworks are dotted around, there are markets, a giant Ferris wheel, bars and restaurants, while street performers abound. Oh, and being Brisbane, there really had to be a beach, so the architects made one. A man-made beach stands right slap-bang in the middle of the city.
The Brisbane Cultural Precinct in South Brisbane is the state’s epicentre of artistic life. Here,
inter-connected, you’ll find the Gallery of Modern Art – a superb space with impressive exhibitions and evening events.
Also check out the Queensland College of Art, Conservatorium, Museum, Performing Arts Centre and the State Library.
To see a lot of Brisbane in one easy go, romp on to the Brisbane Wheel (like the London Eye), located on the South Bank. You can see all the main sights of the city – the Brisbane river, the Treasury Building, Commissariat Store Buildings, Botanical Gardens, Goodwill Bridge, The Gabba (fans of rugby, cricket and football will recognise that name), and all the other landmarks of this buzzing city. It’s a tenner well spent.
The CityCat is the best way to get around. It’s a real joy to take to the water and catch the breeze as you whizz around the city. There’s also a free service called City Hopper – what other city can boast that?
Also free is the service called Brisbane Greeters, who volunteer to take you round the city free of charge and show you the delights of this wonderful city.
In terms of shopping, don’t miss Queen St Mall, a pedestrianised main artery in the city centre with 700-plus retailers. The Queens Plaza has everything from Tiffany to David Jones – Australia’s largest outlet.
Off the mall is the Brisbane Arcade – think Burlington Arcade and look for top Aussie designers. My personal favourite is James Street Market. This is a fabulous indoor market selling
quality food from around the world. The eating out scene in Brisbane is every bit as high-end as in Sydney or Cape Town – the absolute best of the Southern Hemisphere.
I stayed at a place that I can’t recommend enough. It’s called Spicer’s Balfour Hotel, located in the trendy central New Farm district.
Set in a beautiful, historic Queenslander building, this intimate hotel has everything on its doorstep yet you feel as if you’re still staying with a friend.
It’s won countless deserved awards and is relaxed with excellent facilities and service and worth every penny.
Rooms start from £150 – the breakfast sets you up for the day! (See www.spicersretreats.com/ spicers-balfour-hotel)