hendersons, thistle st, edinburgh

1 LOCATION In the heart of the city centre, sitting on a narrow, cobbled road just behind George Street.

2 fIrsT ImpressIONs It almost has a cafe feel to it. Inside is bright and snug, with plain, no-frills furniture. The small, openplan kitchen sits at the top of the restaurant, so you can sit and watch your dinner being made.

3 servICe There’s only one waitress but that’s enough for such a small restaurant. She’s helpful throughout, explaining the ingredients and talking us through the specials board. 4 meNu Formerly a vegetarian restaurant, they made the decision to go full vegan last year. Meat eaters shouldn’t be put off – there’s plenty of meat substitutes and fulsome dishes to suit all tastes.

5 TAsTe The half portion of tangled butternut squash and courgette zoodles with curried coconut sauce is bigger than a full portion in some establishments and is packed full of flavour. The haggis and root mash with gravy is a hearty and tasty main meal. You’ll be struggling to tell the difference with the dairy-free ice cream. It tastes better than lots of “real” ice cream and the shot of espresso and whisky poured over the top makes it a real treat. 6 prICe Fairly typical for Edinburgh city centre, with mains coming in around £12 and desserts just over a fiver. Pretty reasonable for a specialist restaurant.

7 AmbIeNCe Really laid-back feel. We’re visiting on a Sunday afternoon, but I’m willing to bet every day feels like a Sunday in Henderson’s. 8 sOmeThINg speCIAL Through the wall is the Salad Table restaurant, another of Hendersons’ establishments, with a different menu (although this is vegetarian rather than vegan) and above that is the shop and deli, with yet another menu and lots to take home.

9 TOILeTs

A bit of a trek down stairs. Basic, but clean.

10 verdICT Leave any preconceptions about a vegan diet at the door and enjoy some first class food. 18/20