EYE-OPENERS IN THE PYRENEES
Whether you are on foot, bike or kayak the Pyrenees are ripe for exploration
Exploring the mountains on foot... and in a kayak.
WHEN you think of Catalonia you’ll most likely picture the busy Costa Brava beaches or bustling streets of Barcelona.
But while thousands flock to the coast in the spring and summer months, there is a huge playground to discover in the rugged north-west of the region.
The usually snow-covered mountains of the Pyrenees, packed with skiers, give way to peaceful, sun-kissed slopes during spring, ready and waiting to be explored on foot and bike.
Hiring a road bike for a couple of days costs about £70 and there are beautifully-maintained roads to enjoy. And with Val d’Aran bordering France there’s also the opportunity for fitness fanatics to take on Tour de France stages.
If being sat on a bike isn’t your idea of a good time, though, there are ample other opportunities to stretch your legs.
And there are few better or more picturesque ways than to hike through the mountains of Val d’Aran.
There is the opportunity to visit Spain’s highest village, Montgarri.
You set off further into the Pyrenees on a set route which takes you to a series of refuges before returning back into Catalonia.
But if you want to simply stay in Val d’Aran, accommodation couldn’t be easier to find.
There are rows of empty ski chalets and largely-deserted, but open, hotels to take advantage of at off-peak rates.
The four-star Hotel Vilagaros, for example, will cater a single room for £50 a night with a double bed, power shower and bath.
That includes breakfast and it lies bang in the middle of the picturesque valley with the hills towering over it.
But Catalonia isn’t all about exploring the wilderness of the mountains.
Its melting snowcaps and rainier climate means there is plenty of water rushing around, too.
To the south is the region of Lleida and its capital, Sort.
Running through Sort is the rapid river of La Noguera Pallaresa and there’s a real buzz to be had out on an inflatable raft with an instructor for a little more than £35 per person.
Alternatively, if you want a less vigorous experience, just over an hour south is the Mont-Rebei Gorge which is perfect for kayaking.
Sheltered by the walls of the gorge, the clear blue water is completely still and you are surrounded by 500 metres of stunning cliffs, leaving you with an unforgettable four-hour experience for as little as £30.
And a dip in the water is a bracing way to cool off if the sun and heat gets a bit too much for you.
If you aren’t confident on the water, a pathway has actually been cut into the gorge halfway up the cliff which can be navigated with ease on foot, forging even more spectacular views of the landscape.
But when the activities are done for the day, there are few better ways to wind down in Catalonia than with some of their well-renowned food.
The Catalans pride themselves on serving up high-quality produce and it can be sampled for reasonable prices almost anywhere.
It’s not just the bog-standard paella as is eaten across Spain, but carefully-cooked beef, duck, trout and other meats alongside helpings of pâté, cheese and what ended up being my personal favourite, natural yoghurt.
However, if Spanish cuisine isn’t for you it may be best to look elsewhere, as there’s often not much in the way of alternatives.
Overall, the north-west of Catalonia is, and will continue to be, a hotbed for skiers and snowboarders during the winter months.
But even Spaniards themselves are somewhat aware of the natural beauty lying in wait during the warmer months.
One word of warning would be transport. Getting from Britain to Barcelona is a piece of cake, but navigating your way to the north-west of Catalonia is not easy.
In off-peak season, because it is a four-hour drive away, Val d’Aran has an understandable shortage of public transport from the capital.
My advice would be to rent a car for the duration, or even think about hiring a minibus if you’re part of a large group.
Not having to rely on public transport would give you far more time to explore the countryside, rather than sitting waiting for buses.