Living the good life onGigha
Tiny island really measures up – and not just for the whisky ice-cream!
WE’RE sitting on the sun-dappled deck of The Boathouse sipping a long, cool drink. Just feet away is a white sand beach lapped by turquoise waters.
A yacht, its sails quivering in the breeze, is heading for the pontoon close by. We could be on the other side of the world, but we haven’t even left Scotland. We are on the Isle of Gigha, just off the Kintryre peninsula, and only three hours from Glasgow.
Gigha is the most southerly and one of the most beautiful of the Hebridean Islands. In 2002 the tiny isle, measuring just seven miles long by a mile and a half wide, was bought by its inhabitants, who number around 160. And with only one very quiet road stretching the length of the island, it’s almost impossible to get lost.
We decide to go exploring and head off to Gigha Boats Activity Centre to arrange bike hire.
With the sun on our backs, we ditch our shoes and paddle in tiny bays – like Rubh’ A Chinn Mhor or Johny’s Shore – go in search of the spouting cave and take the bikes to Port Nam Cudean (aka Cuddyport) to watch the seals.
Creag Bhan, the highest point on the island, offers what is arguably the best view. On a clear day you get a 360-degrees vista taking in the islands of Jura and Islay.
We’re also keen to see the world-famous Achamore Gardens created by Sir James Horlick after he bought the island in 1944. We’ve heard all about this 54-acre paradise with its impressive sub-tropical collection of rare Rhododendrons which thrive in Gigha’s microclimate. But we’re dismayed to find it a shadow of its former self.
Now the islanders, worried about its deterioration, have set up the Achamore Gardens Trust with which they hope to bring about its restoration.
They are also investigating the potential purchase of B-listed Achamore House, which was visited by the Queen during her 80th birthday cruise. Owned by Emma and Don Dennis, this fairytale baronial mansion is on the market with Savills. We bump into Don at Ardminish Stores. These islanders, it seems, are an entrepreneurial bunch. Don came here from California many moons ago and has no plans
to leave, particularly as he and Emma have invested heavily in the ‘ Wee Isle’ dairy which produces the delicious milk we had with breakfast.
“We make ice-cream too,” he tells us, dipping into the freezer for the Bramble & Whisky variety which he hands to my 10-year-old daughter. “Try it,” he grins. “It’s legal, I promise!”
We’re heading back to our hotel, ice cream in hand, when we hear the haunting strains of a fiddle from the Gigha Gallery and find its manager mid-practise. She lays down the violin to show us around.
This gallery is a wee gem. It has hosted more than 50 exhibitions, displays pottery and holds craft workshops.
And the island has a variety of accommodation too. We stayed at the Gigha Hotel which is clean and comfortable and has a welcoming and lively bar. They do decent pub grub, but there is dining par excellence at The Boathouse.
Gigha brims with natural beauty and bonhomie. Everywhere we go we are met with smiles and waves. It’s not without reason that it was named by the Vikings ‘Gudey’ or ‘the Good Isle’.
As we’re packing up the car to leave we meet Nicol MacKinnon and his wife Cathleen. Driving instructor Nicol is a descendant of the MacNeill family, the isle’s ancient Lairds.
The couple are sprucing up a bench dedicated to the memory of Duncan and Ann McNeill, Nicol’s grandparents. They have made the pilgrimage from their home in Perth.
Nicol points to a cottage in the distance – Tighanrudha – and says: “My whole family was born there.”
And he adds: “I’ve been coming here for 52 years and Cathleen comes too. We will be buried here. This island has a pull on your soul.”
We know what he means.