RESTAURANT REVIEW

A’CHALLTAINN, 54 CALTON ENTRY, GLASGOW

1 LOCATION

The Barras has fairly changed. The sprawling East End market became famous as a vibrant flea market or a bit of a dive, depending on your point of view. This fancy fish restaurant (it’s pronounced “A cawl tain”) is located in the Barras Art and Design Centre, which shows how the area has changed. You’re now as likely to bump into a moustachioed hipster as you are a Glasgow version of Del Boy.

2 fIrsT ImpressIONs

A’Challtainn is one of a couple of restaurants in a shared market area, but it’s anything but crammed in. You could park a small aircraft in here if it wasn’t for the stylish jumble of white tables and Scandinavian chairs.

3 servICe

It’s busy but we’re seen and ordered our drinks within moments.

4 meNu

Bring the credit card, this one’s slightly steeper than usual. It’s a fish restaurant so if you don’t like scoffing down seafood there’s nothing much else for you here other than a pricey fillet of beef. We opt for the fish and chips, at £12, and the stone bass for £17.

5 TAsTe

For a country that relied on fishing for centuries we’ve let ourselves down when it comes to using local ingredients – the Italians even started using our langoustines before it really clicked with our restaurants. A’Challtainn is a step in the right direction – the battered haddock is one of the best we’ve had. It’s almost as enjoyable as the one you tear into on the 11pm Friday bus home.

6 prICe

Two mains and two soft drinks are nearly £40. Eek! Still, you’re getting some really fresh ingredients.

7 AmbIeNCe

It was a bustling weekend but not too rowdy. Weekdays might be quieter.

8 sOmeThINg speCIAL

A whole lobster – expect to pay market prices – is available, with garlic butter and chips.

9 TOILeTs

Clean, no problems here.

10 verdICT

A very impressive space with lovely, fresh fish. Price was a bit higher than we hoped. 14/20