Of culture Leeds the way
The Royal Armouries (royalarmouries.org) is the national collection of arms and armour, much of it previously stored in the Tower Of London, and essentially a shrine to the ways people can kill each other.
Horrible? Yes. But the collection – entrance is free – is also about innovation, technology and superb craftmenship.
Recently reopened following refurbishment, Leeds Art Gallery (leeds.gov.uk/artgallery) on The Headrow is overshadowed, architecturally, by Cuthbert Brodrick’s splendid 1850s Leeds Town Hall next door.
Built in 1886-8 by public subscription, the stunning Victorian glazed roof was rediscovered by builders after it was boxed in during the 1970s.
The Grand Arcade is, ironically, the least grand of Leeds’ many covered shopping streets.
These range from Thornton’s Arcade (opened in 1878 and home today to quirky independent retailers, such as OK Comics) to the much newer Victoria Gate, anchored by one of the largest John Lewis stores in the UK.
The jewel in the crown is The Victoria Quarter, designed in 1900 by Frank Matcham, better known for his theatres.
A branch of Harvey Nichols now stands on the site of the original Empire Theatre. The remainder of the covered complex is filled with high-end stores from Space NK to Vivienne Westwood, and the Tesla car company has just opened a showroom.
To describe it as one of the most beautiful shopping malls in Britain is no exaggeration.
Explore the work of British watercolourist John Sell Cotman, or catch a major retrospective of the sculptures and drawings of Joseph Beuys (both exhibitions are on until January 21). The Tiled Hall Cafe, with magnificent marble columns and a mosaic ceiling, is a work of art in itself.
Entrance is free.
Stepping into the DoubleTree by Hilton (doubletree3.hilton. com) is a dramatic, almost Harry Potterish experience.
Descend from the bridge above Platform 17 at Leeds Railway Station into the Dark Arches (brick tunnels built in Victorian times to carry the tumbling waters of the River Aire), then emerge into a blaze of daylight by the Leeds & Liverpool Canal.
The canal-side location on Granary Wharf offers soothing views of narrowboats chugging gently along.
The fashionable Sky Lounge roof terrace gets busy at weekends, so a good way to enjoy the panoramic views in tranquility is by taking advantage of the weekend brunch option (£17.50) or a full-blown afternoon tea (£19.95). From £73 per night, room only.
A budget option is Art Hostel (arthostel.org.uk).
Managed as a social enterprise, each room has been individually designed using recycled materials. A private twin room (bed only) costs £55, and a bunk in a 10-bed mixed dorm is £22.50.