The Sunday Post (Newcastle)

Swish hotel serves up fine fare in grand surroundin­gs Exe appeal of

- By Ella Walker

It earned a Michelin star within six months of opening so you’d expect Lympstone Manor to offer exceptiona­l cuisine but, perched on the edge of Devon’s Exe estuary, it also serves up views to die for.

The Georgian manor house set in beautiful south-west countrysid­e is as milky and square as a lump of nougat, with alabaster gravel pathways fringed with lavender.

Its lawn slopes down to a bracken-covered ridge, where the trees are silhouette­d against the smooth, shifting water of the Exe – and then there’s just sky.

A huge wide-open wedge of it, seemingly doubled by its reflection in the estuary, where the odd boat bobs restlessly, and the tide slips and slides on the sand.

Every aspect of the hotel, a former private house built in the late 1700s (and lived in by the Baring banking family – whose descendant­s included Diana, Princess of Wales), is geared towards that vaulted view, from the wraparound terrace to the crest of the driveway.

Here, a string of free-to-use burgundy bikes sit waiting to be whisked off down to the water’s edge, or cycled the two-and-a-half miles to Exmouth, which is so close you can hear the buzz of the funfair fizzing across the water. Sunsets are spectacula­r. Like a scoop of orange sorbet, the sun bleeds and melts into the Exe, before plunging into creamy golden clouds the exact colour of the Brixham scallops we’re served at dinner.

This swish country house is the baby of acclaimed chef Michael Caines. His solo venture only opened a few months ago, but has already earned the sort of glowing reviews most hotel owners can only dream of.

Early in his career Michael, 48, was championed by Raymond Blanc and became head chef at Gidleigh Park, Devon, where he went on to hold two Michelin stars for 18 consecutiv­e years, before leaving at the beginning of last year to renovate Lympstone.

When designing the layout of his new hotel, he envisioned a luxurious, contempora­ry New England vibe, ensuring there’s no stuffiness, despite the plushness.

Instead of dynastic portraits on the wall, there are delicate murals of estuary birds in flight, and each of the 21 bedrooms and suites comes with its own set of GHD hair straighten­ers.

The bedrooms are also

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