I dive for the sugar kelp single handed, swimming along at low tide with mesh bags
Diving into the Hebridean coast’s icy waters wouldn’t be a task relished by most – but for seaweed expert, Lewis Mackenzie, it’s just another day at the office.
Lewis gathers the sugar kelp seaweed that plays a starring role in Isle of Harris Gin, and dons a dry suit, snorkel, mask, weight belt and flippers to hand-pick the magical plant from the seabed.
With decades of experience, the hardy diver ensures his foraging trips are sustainable, harvesting only what he needs.
“I dive for the sugar kelp single handed, swimming along at low tide with two or three mesh bags,” he explained.
“I cut off the thorns of the sugar kelp just above the stalk and only take the leaves that are in good condition and free from contaminates. I follow a code of conduct for low-impact harvesting, which is a fully sustainable way of gathering the plants.
“The sugar kelp plant lives for up to four years, and I can harvest the same plant three times a year – all we do is remove some of the leaf, and don’t touch the stalk. The quality of the leaves has actually improved in the areas I harvest regularly, and there’s new growth all the time.”
Once Lewis is on the surface, he checks for crustaceans – which he puts back into the water unharmed – and the seaweed is then processed in a factory just outside Stornoway, before being vacuum packed and sent to the distillery for use in their secret recipe.
As the name would suggest, the gold-green plant has a naturally sweet taste, and is very, very delicate at only about a millimetre thick.
He said: “The use of seaweed in gin is quite an inspirational idea. There has been a lot of trial and error and it’s been a huge learning curve for everybody involved. We’re still learning every day.
“We don’t fully understand yet how the flavour of the sugar kelp will change each month as it dies back in the winter and has a growth spurt in the spring. It will be interesting to see how these subtle changes affect the flavour.
“There’s quite a science behind it – it’s not just a case of chucking on a diving suit and grabbing a handful of seaweed!”
Lewis harvests during the winter months, and admits he’s never managed to get used to the chilly temperatures.
He said: “When we had the cold snap a few weeks ago I missed a few days of diving because I literally couldn’t get the boat out of the harbour. And on the days when it did melt, there were bits of ice floating past my face.
“You are shivering and cold, but I can stick it for about two hours.
“It’s cold work, there’s no doubt about it!”