On my plate Fancy a chaat? Nice’n’spicy street food is the talk of the town
TV chef boxes clever with foodie venture
The challenges of the pandemic have forced many in the hospitality industry to think outside the box during lockdowns and rule changes – but TV chef Tony Singh thought, quite literally, inside the box to help keep his business afloat.
Unable to continue hosting bespoke “supper clubs” at his Edinburgh home, and inspired by the growing Scottish street-food community, Singh set up shop in a converted shipping container, where he now serves up Indian savoury snacks to hungry customers.
Singh’s “Radge Chaat” eatery focuses on just one dish done well – the traditional street-food delicacy chaat. Often sold in a variety of combinations from roadside stalls and carts, the dish’s name roughly translates into “licking one’s fingers when eating”, which is highly appropriate given the number of tasty ingredients packed into every bite.
The base of any good chaat is samosa or pakora, which are then topped with coriander, chutney and cooling fresh yoghurt. Crunchy ingredients such as fried diced potato and spiced chickpeas are added, before the whole dish is finished with fresh chopped vegetables, and a sprinkling of chaat masala, a ubiquitous Indian spice blended with black salt.
It’s a flavour sensation, Singh says, that makes the tastebuds come alive.
“With chaat, there’s always so many different flavours going on at once,” explained Singh, whose new foodie venture can be found at Tollcross in Edinburgh.“You take a bite and with all the different sauces and toppings it’s incredible – but still so simple.
“Chaat is always different depending on what region and city it’s served in, so the ingredients are always very local and seasonal. We try to use Scottish ingredients as much as possible – potatoes, rapeseed oil, everything – and the menu will change to make our dishes seasonal, too.
“And my personal favourite? Both samosa and pakora with absolutely everything piled on top. On the menu it’s called a Mad Radge!”
Singh’s new street-food offering is something of a family affair, as he’ll be working alongside his brother, Lucky. Meanwhile his son, Balraj, has his own brightly coloured container just a few steps away, where Japanese street food is on the menu.
So, will there be any bust-ups with two brothers working in such closer quarters? Singh says spending more time with his brother is the icing on the cake – or topping on the chaat.“When you’re a chef, you are always working in a small room with no windows – and it’s always hot! My little brother is great to work with…and he does what he’s told,” he added with a laugh.
In the past few years, street food has become more and more popular in Scotland, and highquality vendors serve up dishes from small, makeshift kitchens in the back of converted containers,
like Singh’s, as well as trailers, 1970s campervans, and old horse boxes. It’s a welcome trend that Singh says has helped people try new dishes.
“During the pandemic, I could see eating habits were changing,” said Singh, known for his BBC cooking shows,A Cook Abroad:Tony Singh’s India and The Incredible Spice Men, which he hosted with Cyrus Todiwala.
“Not only were people buying more takeaways to eat at home, but they also started meeting friends to eat outside more. Being able to adapt with these changes has been essential, hence Radge Chaat.
“Plus, offering street food is much more flexible and very relaxed. It also lets people try new things.You might not necessarily go to, say, a Vietnamese restaurant for a full meal, but you might try a dish if you’re visiting a market with friends.
“The essence of street food is enjoying the dish there and then, with sauce running down your hands.”
Radge Chaat is open Thurs to Sat, noon to 10pm, at 5 West Tollcross, Edinburgh. Visit tonysingh.co.uk