CORONATION CHICKEN

MYJUBILEE: VALENTINE WARNER I will be keeping my menu traditional for the Jubilee weekend, which I am spending at the party in my village, Rushlake Green in East Sussex. I will be doing very English things, such as beef and salmon, and coronation chicken, but with a twist. I might do a curry – yes, definitely a curry – and a cold soup. My tips for a great party? Feed children first, so you can enjoy your food later in peace. Organise old-fashioned, sports-day-style games. Wear something smart, pace yourself with the booze, and talk to strangers!

The famous coronation chicken served at the Queen’s coronation lunch is usually attributed to Constance Spry. Popular lore has it that Spry based the recipe on its similarly rich and spicy royal relation, jubilee chicken, prepared for the Silver Jubilee of George V in 1935, which mixed the chicken in mayonnaise and curry. However, it was Rosemary Hume who was actually behind coronation chicken, the recipe for which went on to appear in the first edition, in 1956, of The Constance Spry Cookery Book and is indeed still to be found in the modern edition. CORONATION CHICKEN (COLD) (FOR 6-8) “One would not venture to serve, to a large number of guests of varying and unknown tastes, a curry dish in the generally accepted sense of this term,” wrote Spry. “I doubt whether many of the 300-odd guests at the coronation luncheon detected this ingredient [curry powder] in a chicken dish which was distinguished mainly by a delicate and nutlike flavour in the sauce.” METHOD Poach two young roasting chickens with carrot, bouquet garni, salt and peppercorns in water and a little wine, as well as enough barely to cover, for about 40 minutes or until tender. Allow to cool in the liquid. Joint the birds, removing the bones with care. CREAMOF CURRY SAUCE: 1 tbsp oil 50g/2oz onion, finely chopped 1 dessert spoon curry powder 1 good tsp tomato purée 1 wineglass red wine ¾ wineglass water A bay leaf Salt, sugar, a touch of pepper A slice or two of lemon and a squeeze of lemon juice 1-2 tbsp apricot purée 450ml/¾ pint mayonnaise 2-3 tbsp lightly whipped cream Heat the oil, add onion, cook gently for 3-4 minutes, add curry powder. Cook again for 1-2 minutes. Add purée, wine, water and bay leaf. Bring to boil, add salt, sugar to taste, pepper, and the lemon and lemon juice. Simmer with the pan uncovered for 5-10 minutes. Strain and cool. Add by degrees to the mayonnaise with the apricot purée to taste. Adjust seasoning, adding a little more lemon juice if necessary. Finish with the whipped cream. Take a small amount of sauce (enough to coat the chicken) and mix with a little extra cream and seasoning. Mix the chicken and the sauce together, arrange on a dish, coat with the extra sauce. RICE SALAD The rice salad which accompanied the chicken was of rice, peas, diced raw cucumber and finely chopped mixed herbs, all mixed in a wellseasoned French dressing. For convenience in serving at the Coronation, the chicken was arranged at one end of an oblong dish and a rice salad at the other. ‘The Constance Spry Cookery Book’ by Constance Spry and Rosemary Hume (£30, Grub St) SERVES 6-8 10 boned chicken thighs 25g butter 1 rounded tbsp plain flour 300ml dry cider 2 rounded tsp whole seed mustard Small handful fresh tarragon 75g chestnut mushrooms 1 dessert apple 150ml crème fraîche or double cream 1 egg 375g packet puff pastry MYJUBILEE: LUCY CUFFLIN I’m creating a Commonwealth menu for our street party, including Bajan fishcakes from Barbados, samosas from India and sweet jerk chicken from Trinidad and Tobago. Plus an Eton mess station for pudding. Turn on the oven to 180C/350F/GAS 4. Remove the skin from the chicken thighs and cut each into three pieces. Gently melt the butter in a heat-proof casserole, then remove from the heat. Add the chicken pieces to the casserole and stir to coat with the butter. Then stir in the flour followed gradually by the cider. Put the casserole back over the heat and stir until the liquid bubbles and thickens. Now add the mustard and season with sea salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Cover and cook in the centre of the oven for one hour. Meanwhile, pull the leaves off the tarragon stalks and chop roughly. Slice the mushrooms across thinly. Peel the apple, cut out the core and cut into small chunks. Cut two small holes near the centre to allow steam to escape. When ready to cook the pie, preheat the oven to 200C/400F/GAS 6, brush the pastry all over with the rest of the egg and cook in the centre of the oven for 20-25 minutes until the pastry is puffed and browned, then turn down the heat to 150C/300F Gas 2 for another 15-20 minutes. CAULIFLOWER ANDTOMATO CURRY Vegetarian guests should be happy with this. If you find any curry leaves, add six to eight of them with the tomatoes. SERVES 4 1 medium-large cauliflower 5cm piece fresh ginger them, leave for two-three minutes, then drain, peel and slice in half lengthways. Turn on the oven to 160C/315F/GAS 3. Heat the sunflower oil in a heavy, large flame-proof casserole over a low heat. Stir in the turmeric, the ground coriander, cumin and onion seeds, followed by the chopped ginger, garlic and chilli. Stir over the heat for a minute, then add the cauliflower florets and stir around in the spice mixture. Take off the heat and place the halved tomatoes among the cauliflower. Pour in the lemon and orange juice and sprinkle with some sea salt. Cover the casserole, bring up to bubbling point on top of the stove, then cook in the centre of the oven for about 50 minutes. Before serving, scatter on the coriander leaves. ‘Orchards in the Oasis: Travels, Food and Memories’ by Josceline Dimbleby is available fromtelegraph Books for £23 plus £1.25 p & p (0844 871 1515; books.telegraph. co.uk)