The ideal diet from top to bottom
Derived from the same plant, celeriac and celery are not bog-standard vegetables
Traditionally, January is the time to diet, and luckily there are two related vegetables that are low in calories, tasty and adaptable, and available now. Both were bred from the same plant – Apium graveolens, originally a bog plant. The stems developed as celery and the roots as celeriac; if you’re dieting, both are ideal plants – filling, full of fibre and low in calories at just 14 per 100g. Fewer, probably, than the energy it takes to chew them. Both celery and celeriac are easy to grow if you have rich, moisture-retentive soil and are prepared to keep watering. Celery comes in either selfblanching or trench varieties, the latter can be harvested for longer but is more demanding to grow. Celery seedlings that are planted too early and catch cold are prone to early bolting, so a sunny bed is best, with deep soil. Hardier celeriac can be left in the ground till March if protected with a snug covering of straw, or stored in compost in a shed. The main enemies of both, in such rich damp conditions, are slugs, which can be partially remedied with the usual traps, nematodes and environmentally friendly pellets, or nightly slug patrols. Celery leaf miners are deterred by growing the crop under mesh or fleece tunnels (available from haxnicks.co.uk). Get cooking Celeriac, a knobbly boulder of a root vegetable, has the finer flavour. Harvested when medium-sized, it should be firm and free from bruises. Attack, scrub and peel thickly to get rid of root channels, and be prepared to lose a quarter of its weight during the process. Chop into bits and leave in lemony water to prevent browning. Celeriac is delicious in soups and Plant into small pots when seedlings can be handled. Do not plant out until the danger of frost has passed. Choose a sunny spot, and don’t let the soil dry out. Give plants plenty of space with the stem base at ground level. Mulching helps to keep the soil moist. Harvest from October until March, cover with straw and leave in the ground until needed. ‘Alabaster’ is high yielding, ‘Monarch’ smooth-skinned, ‘Prinz’ has good flavour and is disease-resistant, ‘Albin’ (unwins.co.uk) has all these qualities. mash, especially if enhanced with cream, butter and black pepper, although then it quickly loses its status as the dieter’s friend. Celery is best eaten fresh from the plot, but will last for a week or so in the fridge before turning unappealingly limp, though it may be revived by standing in cold water. The stems are great for dipping, delicious peeled and braised in stock and butter, and the leaves are good chopped in salads and soups. In Italy and France, celery joins carrot and onion to form the base flavour of most of their cuisine. Celery seed is a condiment in itself (available from the spice department of most supermarkets or realfoods. co.uk), and you can make your own celery salt by grinding seeds or dried leaves with sea salt. Sprinkle anywhere instead of salt, especially in Bloody Marys, vegetable smoothies, with eggs and on sandwiches. Historically used to treat a myriad of conditions from the common cold to digestive complaints, celery is high in potassium and antioxidants. One of my favourite ...wearing my waterproof, breathable 3-Season gardening trousers from genus.gs with integral kneepads and loads of pockets. Feed regularly once plants are established and harvest before the first frosts. Trenched celery can last until January (try ‘Giant Pink’). Self-blanching varieties include ‘Golden Spartan’ and ‘Loretta’ (dobies.co.uk). ‘Reselected Giant Red’ is an unusual hardy variety; ‘Full White’ is self-blanching (realseeds.co.uk). recipes at this time of the year involves melting a Vacherin (or Camembert) in a low oven in its box for 20 minutes. Use celery and carrot batons to dip into the runny melted cheese. And as a change from celeriac soup, try these vegetable chips: Chop celeriac, sweet potato, squash and parsnips into chunky chips and pat dry. Place on a baking sheet covered with oiled greaseproof paper, and brush with a little harissa paste diluted in olive oil. Sprinkle with sea salt and sesame seeds and pop onto the top shelf of a hot oven till nicely browned.