How to make an Easter cake fit for a princess
Sally Saunders enjoys a masterclass in cake decorating with royal wedding baker Fiona Cairns
After growing her business for 25 years, going from supplying Harrods from her kitchen table to producing millions of cakes, Fiona Cairns attracted worldwide attention when she created the cake for Kate Middleton and Prince William’s wedding in 2011. “If we were to think of a dream brief for our business I would say that was it,” smiles Fiona. “It was her ideas, her brief. Her ideas were wonderful.” Fiona and her team spent three days locked away in a room in Buckingham Palace decorating the exquisite creation. “We had to keep pinching ourselves. We did try to enjoy it but we were really stressed. And it was so hard to walk away from that one.” Fiona attended the wedding, but found it difficult to concentrate. “I couldn’t help but keep thinking they are going to be cutting the cake soon,” she says. “But we heard later on, on the day, that William and Kate were delighted with the cake, and then we could open the champagne.” The happy couple weren’t the only ones who were impressed. The following year Fiona was asked to create cakes for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebration in the gardens of the palace. And now I’m in her kitchen, where it all began, learning to decorate cakes. Fiona has already prepared a beautiful, glossy chocolate fudge cake. Instead of attempting intricate sugar work, we decide on a more natural approach for our Easter centrepiece. Edible flowers, simply crystallised, and pretty marzipan eggs create a beautiful spring cake – and don’t require any specialist equipment. The processes are simple, but effective. Fiona is a perfectionist – you don’t get to make cakes for the Queen if you’re slapdash – but also a patient and encouraging teacher. “You need to take your time and enjoy it, but it’s all very simple to do,” she says. Much of the art comes in arranging the flowers and eggs on the cake, but I’m surprised how simple this is. Fiona advises that odd numbers look better than even, but that seems to be the only rule. Instead of worrying about patterns and symmetry, everything is arranged by eye. “I think this is a beautiful Easter centrepiece that anyone can make, but will really wow your guests,” says Fiona. Well, if it’s good enough for the Duke and Duchess…