The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

6 OF THE BEST

Custards, tried and tasted

- By Madeleine Howell

Winter is a time for comforting crumbles and puddings, slathered in warm custard. So it might be dishearten­ing to hear that Ambrosia, the 100-year-old brand found

M&S DESSERT MENU THICK AND CREAMY MADAGASCAN VANILLA £2.40 FOR 500G

This has the thickest consistenc­y of them all; it’s positively Mr Whippy-esque, though runnier when heated. Just very slightly sickly. 7/10

WAITROSE 1 MADAGASCAN VANILLA £1.72 FOR 500G

The whipped texture here is almost fluffy, and seriously moreish. Not as heavy or sweet as some, this is a great all-rounder for tarts and bakes. Well done! 10/10

AMBROSIA £2 FOR 750G, WIDELY AVAILABLE

Telltale yellow and gloopily thick, this remains a comfort but tastes bland when pitted against its vanilla-flecked competitor­s. Pour it over treacle sponge. 8/10 in 43 per cent of UK homes, has been put up by sale by Premier Foods. But how does its custard fare against fresh alternativ­es? We put the best to the test to find out...

SAINSBURY’S TTD MADAGASCAN VANILLA £2 FOR 500G

Unrefined demerara gives this a subtly caramelise­d flavour. Tasting exceptiona­lly rich and creamy, a little goes a long way. A good match for lighter desserts. 9/10

OATLY VANILLA 99P FOR 250ML, TESCO

Free from lactose, milk protein and soya, this is a little watery, very sweet and quite distinct from the dairy versions. Made with palm oil that’s certified as sustainabl­e. 7/10

ASDA EXTRA SPECIAL MADAGASCAN VANILLA £1.69 FOR 500G

A runny consistenc­y with a smooth, silky mouthfeel. It’s not too rich overall but tastes very sugary – best paired with tart, sour fruit-based desserts. 6/10

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