Camping and pubs go together like beer and crisps, so what better way to spend a night under canvas than after an evening supping a pint or two?
Ihave tried to be a huntergatherer camper. You know, the fleece-wearing Bear Grylls type – tutoring little ’uns how to arrange campfire kindling in tepee form, whilst rustling up the perfect paella. But fleeces make me itch, and the less said about my paella the better.
For me, the attraction of camping in Britain lies partly in the pub. Cornwall, Pembrokeshire, the Lake District – eating local, timeless dishes in these destinations is an integral part of the travel experience. Elsewhere, though, the drink’s the appeal – the characterful old bars of the Highlands, Norfolk and Yorkshire overflow with history and legend.
The tipping point arrived one chilly evening at Smithy Fields Campsite in the Peak District; the distant sound of clinking glass and laughter from The George – a lovely 400-year-old coach house – proved too tempting. Three pints, one slow-cooked Derbyshire lamb, and a Bakewell pudding later, I decided camping and pubs went together like, well, three pints, one slow-cooked Derbyshire lamb, and a Bakewell pudding.
If heaven exists, let it be like the Bridge Inn’s beer garden in Herefordshire; with a small footbridge covered by weeping willows, and a tinkling river below. All within a 30-second walk of the pub’s camping field. Another favourite is Clachaig Inn (near Red Squirrel campsite) – a historic Highland drinking den with a sign banning “Hawkers and Campbells”. After a day tackling Glencoe, there’s nothing more satisfying than a single-malt in front of the fire.
Therapeutic qualities aside, the other benefits of a campsite local should not be underestimated. Not only can you travel light, but shelter is afforded when the weather turns, and you will be supporting a rural economy. But most of all, a night spent in a good pub is the best way to get to know the locals.
So, here I raise a glass to some of the UK’s finest campsites, all within staggering distance of a great boozer. These are sort of watering holes where you’ll pop in for a quick half and find yourself, quite unexpectedly, settling in a cosy corner for the whole day. Just make sure you remember the way back to camp...
Andrew Day, editor, Cool Camping and Glampingly.
20 BEST CAMPSITES WITH A PUB NEARBY
FALLOW FIELDS CAMPING, KENT Pitches at this spot, a 10-minute drive from the historic town of Sandwich, are nestled between apple, pear and cherry trees. Yoga and bushcraft lessons are on offer; and they’ll take you coastal foraging under the White Cliffs of Dover. Facilities are basic – lavatories, showers and fire pits to hire – and there’s a small shop. Like many village pubs with bedrooms, The Five Bells (one mile away in Eastry) is now more B&B, but at its heart remains a traditional inn.
Landlady Mary is a truly welcoming host, even driving tipsy tenters back to Fallow Fields. Weekend camping (2-night minimum) adults from £9, children (3-17 yrs) £6, under-3s free (Selson Farm, Drainless Road CT13 0EA; fallowfieldscamping.com)
WOLD FARM CAMPSITE, EAST RIDING OF YORKSHIRE
Green fields tumbling down to isolated beaches await at this farm campsite. Bag a pitch enjoying views over sheep-filled fields to both Flamborough lighthouses – ideally on a night with a full moon. Take the campsite’s private footpath to the chalk cliffs – turn left for RSPB Bempton Cliffs and its fabulous sea birds (puffins, gannets and skuas), or right for the caves and rock pools at Thornwick Bay. Given the site’s remote location, there are a surprising number of pubs nearby. Try The Seabirds Inn, in Flamborough – a well-regarded local serving excellent fish and chips. Pitches from £16. Additional adults £6, children 3-15 £3 (Bempton Lane, Flamborough YO15 1AT; woldfarmcampsite.com) Grab a wheelbarrow, load up your gear and follow the grassy path to the car-free camping meadow: a safe, sprawling space encircled by ancient hornbeam and oak trees. Walk for 20 minutes along the dismantled railway line (linking the campsite to the village of Barcombe), and you are rewarded with The Royal Oak – a handsome pub with original features and a roaring open fire. Adults £20, children (3-16 yrs) £10, under-3s free (Brickyard Farm, Cooksbridge N8 4TD; thesecretcampsites.co.uk/lewes
OLIVIA WALMSLEY VISITED THE SECRET CAMPSITE TWO WEEKS AGO...
After an easy 90-minute drive from humid, overcast east London, Jonny and I arrived at dusk, gulping in great lungfuls of the crisp evening air as we unpacked the car.
Our home for the first night was the Gridshell (which looked straight out of George Clarke’s Amazing
Spaces – in fact, the designer, whose studio is on site, has appeared on that very programme). A green pod-like structure set on a wooden platform with space for extra tents on the grass in front, the pitch is surrounded by tall swaying grasses, wildflowers, trees (some shaped into an elegant arch over a wooden picnic table) and terrifically triffid-like cardoons. Tim Bullen, the owner, is passionate about encouraging wildlife on the site; and the planting has been designed for that purpose. So, you’ll share the spacious 18-pitch site – A SECRET LOCATION Olivia and Jonny in Lewes each area secluded from other groups – with giant crested newts, adders, slow worms and nightingales.
The next morning, we left the Gridshell (equipped with beds and lights) and pitched our tent (not so well equipped; we’d forgotten torches) in a private patch of meadow and went exploring. We’d planned a fry-up over the campfire, but as the mercury nudged the 80s opted to change tack. Our destination instead was The Royal Oak (harveys. org.uk/pub/royal-oak), just revamped with its own skittles lane – good fun if the weather turns on you, I imagine. Our ploughman’s lunches were generous: great doorsteps of local cheddar and nutty Mayfield and a mildish Brighton Blue, ham from a nearby farm, good bread and chutneys. Perfect fuel for a walk and a dip in the river at nearby Barcombe Mills.
The next day it rained, for hours. So after a soggy fry-up under a dripping awning, we took refuge at the cosy Five Bells pub, a 45-minute walk away. We returned to London with a baby cardoon to plant, and renewed gratitude for the great British pub.
ALDE GARDEN, SUFFOLK
What was once a derelict pub garden is now an eco-friendly campsite, with ducks to feed and a brilliant jungle shower in the trees. Choose from bell tents or a restored gipsy wagon, or grab one of just four tent pitches under the apple trees. The family-run site offers its own off-licence service from the Camra award-winning Sweffling White Horse – a rare pub without a bar. Ring at the back door and pick up local cider to enjoy by the campfire. Single pitches £18 per night, doubles £29, glamping from £135 for 2 nights (Low Road, Sweffling IP17 2BB; aldegarden.co.uk)
DUNES AT WHITESANDS CAMPING, PEMBROKESHIRE
Set back from Whitesands Bay – a popular surfing beach – Dunes is what estate agents would call “prime location”. But with just 15 pitches set in five acres of long wild grass (each with its own picnic table and firepit) competition is fierce, so book ahead. It’s a pleasant 30-minute walk to St Davids, where, in the shadow of the 12th-century cathedral, you’ll find The Bishops – a Welsh boozer, serving local lobster, crab and mackerel. Camping from £30 per night, children 5-15 £4, under-5s free (Craig-Y-Mor, St Davids SA62 6PT; dunesatwhitesands.co.uk)
RED SQUIRREL CAMPSITE, ARGYLL & BUTE
Dwarfed by towering peaks, this 20-acre site is a great base to explore Glencoe. Follow the overgrown trail to the end of the campsite and you can pitch on an isolated island. Weary walkers flock to the Clachaig Inn – a legendary pub with a sign at the door banning “Hawkers and Campbells”. Order Stornoway black pudding washed down with singlemalt whisky, and plan your next adventure. Muddy boots welcome. Adults £12.50, children (under 12) £2 (Glencoe, Argyll PH49 4HX; redsquirrelcampsite.co.uk)
MOOR VIEW, SOMERSET
Sitting atop the Mendip Hills with far-reaching views over the Somerset Levels and Glastonbury Tor, the four bell tents feature proper double beds with sprung mattresses, vintage storage trunks and wood-burning stoves. Outside are hammocks, perfect for stargazing. The stone-built Queen Victoria in Priddy is a 10-minute walk away, and combines good food with a homely vibe. £90 per night, children 2-15 £10 (Pelting Drove, Priddy BA5 3BA; moorview.camp)
THE BRIDGE INN, HEREFORDSHIRE
Set on the banks of Escley Brook near the Brecon Beacons, this is a pretty, peaceful site. There are camper van pitches by the riverside, two-man spots on a grassy terrace and, for families, the top terrace – a sunny circle bounded by trees. Campers descend on the adjacent 16th-century pub via a footbridge lined with weeping willows ( journey time: approximately 30 seconds). The menu changes regularly: try the Escley-side pie. On warmer days nab a seat outside and sip your Butty Bach to the sound of the river. Adults £10, under-12s £5 (The Bridge Inn, Michaelchurch Escley HR2 0JW; thebridgeinnmichaelchurch. co.uk)
FARRS MEADOW, DORSET
The emphasis at Farrs Meadow, overlooking the Stour Valley, is on tent camping (apart from a few shepherd’s huts and yurts for the squeamish). There’s a strong eco vibe: the camping meadow is car-free and facilities include piping-hot showers and composting loos installed in upcycled horseboxes, and cattle troughs converted into washing-up sinks. Wild swimming in the Stour river makes this a special destination. It’s a 10-minute stroll to the National Trust-owned Vine Inn, a tiny pub in a former bakery. £25 per night, including one tent and two campers (Cowgrove Road, Wimborne Minster BH21 4EL; farrsmeadow.co.uk)
ABBERTON SHEPHERDS HUT, WORCESTERSHIRE
If tent camping isn’t your look, try the Hut. Sitting in a private corner of a 260-acre working farm, this greenpainted hut was constructed from a single ash tree that blew down. Walk through the stable door into a beautifully designed interior, featuring redwood floors and a handcrafted kitchen with Belfast sink, hob and fridge. Guests can strike out to the The Old Bull; a half-timbered affair that inspired “The Bull” in The Archers. Order a cider, then gawp at the huge Thirties-style inglenook and photographs signed by cast members. £100 per night. Additional children 1-16 £10 per night (Manor Farm, Pershore WR10 2NR; abbertonshepherdshut.co.uk)
SMITHY FIELDS CAMPING, DERBYSHIRE
There’s no Wi-Fi and limited phone signal, but you’re here for the scenery. Hillsides littered with stately homes and drystone walls beckon, and the Dovedale Valley is easily reached. The village of Alstonefield is 100 yards away. The George, an 18th-century coaching house, offers fine pub dining. Small pitches £20 per night, large £25. Pitch includes electric, 2 adults, one vehicle (Lode Lane, DE6 2FY; smithyfieldscamping.com)
GRANARY BARN CAMPING, CORNWALL
Easy-going owner Tom is hospitality personified and lives on site. There’s an informal attitude to pitches: three fields offer ample space. From the campsite you can cycle to Skinners brewery in Porthleven, or try The Ship
Inn – a 17th-century pub offering sea views and amazing sunsets that are worth the one-hour trek. In fact, it’s so close to the coast that in winter waves can crash over the roof. Low/high season camping £3/£7 per person (Nantrisack Farm, Helston TR13 0AE; cornwall-backpackers.co.uk)
SANGO SANDS, HIGHLANDS
You’re free to wild camp on any of Scotland’s white-sand beaches, but if you want something less hardcore, Sango Sands offers wild views with added facilities. Brilliantly placed on cliffs above a Blue Flag beach, this 10-acre camping institution offers flat fields for tents, while caravans and campervans can inch right up to the Atlantic. There are several lavatory blocks, hot showers and the site’s Oasis bar is an obvious choice for food. Adults £9, first child 5-15 £6, second child £3, under-5s free. £4 for electric (Durness, Sutherland IV27 4PZ; sangosands.com)
DOT’S CAMPING, HAMPSHIRE
You have to get in on the action quick at Dot’s Camping – it is only open for a few weekends in July and August. Slung across a flat field by the River Avon, and trimming the western edge of the New Forest, Dot’s boasts a stellar location. This is not the place for round-the-clock entertainment – so no music after dark – and facilities are low-key. Days begin with croissants and filtered coffee brought to site, and campers receive a 10 per cent discount from the Dutchgabled Bat & Ball pub down the road.
£27 per night, inc one tent, two adults and a vehicle. Children 2-15 £3 (Woodgreen Rd, Breamore SP6 2AE; dotscamping.co.uk)
TROYTOWN FARM CAMPSITE, ISLES OF SCILLY
With sweeping views of the Atlantic, this site – one of England’s most thrilling – even has its own sandy beach. It’s based on a working dairy