PIP SLOAN TAKES THE SAINT’S WAY IN CORNWALL

Perhaps lesser known than the circuitous South West Coast Path, the 27-mile Saints Way stretches straight across the belly of Cornwall, from busy, foodie Padstow to the bustling harbour of Fowey.

It is believed the route was first taken by the Christian pilgrims travelling from Ireland down through Wales and into Brittany or Galicia – reading this makes me feel ever-so-slightly ashamed of my trepidation at the idea of a 27-mile walk, even more so when I read that the “short cut” I would take was a mere 11 miles. But then, the pilgrims didn’t have to worry about their parking ticket running out, or losing mobile signal.

We arrive at our chosen start-point, parking around six miles from Padstow to allow us to walk backward to the “beginning” of the trail in the harbour for a pint, before returning back for another (slightly more well-deserved) pint. The modern pilgrimage, some might say. Upon arrival, the heavens open. Determined not to let the inevitable Cornish weather mar my attempt to connect with my Christian forefathers, we power on, locating the first of many little black Celtic crosses

signposting the way, and embarking on our journey.

After a brief stretch in the open air of the Camel Estuary, we plunge into comparative darkness in a patch of ancient woodland. Surrounded by these gnarled trees, some of which may have even witnessed the pilgrims themselves (“who are these clowns with their GPS phones?” they probably say of us), we feel miles away from the A road we have previously marched down.

We traverse bucolic hillsides, rickety bridges over babbling brooks, fields of corn (pausing for a Theresa May Moment) and a field guarded by an intimidatingly muscular ram. Whatever landscape you crave, the Saints Way will provide it many times over, with even our little stretch more than satisfying our desires to escape from the rest of humanity, and have a good stare at some cows.

Braver souls go the whole hog and take the 27 miles over a couple of days – Lanivet is a good halfway point with plenty of pubs and B&Bs. Whichever stretch you choose, you’re guaranteed a slice of Britain’s beautifully varied countryside. visitcornwall.com

To start at the beginning of the Way, head to St Petroc’s church, Padstow (PL28 8BG) and follow the Celtic cross markers to Fowey, staying at the historic St Benet’s Abbey at Lanivet, around halfway