Taking a cavalier attitude to clothing in East Sussex
Jeremy Taylor heads to Brighton in a classic Vauxhall that would have been all the rage when the controversial naturist area opened 40 years ago
Brighton councillor John Blackman revealed all to the BBC when Britain’s first major holiday resort agreed to open a naturist beach in 1979. A 200yd stretch of shoreline near the pier had been controversially earmarked for nudist bathers, despite demands from some for a cover-up.
“I personally have got no objection to people showing their breasts and bosoms and general genitalia to one another,” said Blackman. “Jolly good luck to them, but for heaven’s sake they should go somewhere more private. What distresses me is that people naively believe what is good for the Continent is good for Britain.”
The Central Council for British Naturism (now known as British Naturism) campaigned for the nudist area, which soon became a national cause célèbre. Brighton was divided but Councillor Eileen Jakes had the answer – she persuaded colleagues to take a more liberal approach at their meeting by passing around photographs of herself bathing topless in Ibiza.
The seafront landlady and grandmother argued that the idea would help boost tourism, and the beach finally opened the following year. Dozens of resorts around the country have since embraced official naturist areas, although there are scores more “unofficial” areas around the English coast with a long history of naturist use, and simply being naked is not against the law.
It’s easy to forget that the conservative Britain of 1980 was a very different place to what it is now, though, especially on the road. The Ford Escort and Austin Metro were bestsellers but the long-serving Ford Cortina and more stylish Vauxhall Cavalier were locked in a battle to be the country’s family favourite.
I’ve arrived fully clothed in Sussex aboard a 1980 model Cavalier Mk1 – a car that was slow to take off when it was launched as the Opel-badged Ascona six years earlier. However, once it was given Vauxhall’s more familiar Griffin badge, the four-door saloon’s popularity exploded.
The Cavalier offered a fresh, uncluttered design that made the Cortina look dated and unsophisticated. The cabin was spacious and light, it featured a dashboard with a tachometer, cigarette lighter and even a radio. My “royal red” version is the top-of-therange GLS model, with ever-so-sporty Rostyle wheels.
Fitted with a 2.0-litre engine, not to mention a four-spoke steering wheel, this was definitely the car to be seen in on a weekend trip to the seaside. There’s no air-conditioning, of course, and an ice cream would make a terrible mess on those velour seats. Still, the Vauxhall can easily keep up with modern traffic and it seems undervalued today at only £3,000.
It’s a bank holiday and Brighton’s seafront parking slots have already been filled. The naturist beach is a few hundred yards from the main pier and a pebble’s throw from Brighton Marina. It’s chilly but there is already one couple frolicking au naturel in the waves.
British Naturism’s Beach Code urges participants “not to be an exhibitionist” so I’ve brought along a Sunday Telegraph to hide my modesty. Fortunately for all concerned, there isn’t a suitable spot to photograph the car and beach together – plus I’m not sure how the bathers would react.
Joggers, dog-walkers and those out for their morning constitutional seem totally unperturbed by the sight of two naked bodies. There is certainly no sign of the “perverts and voyeurs” that Brighton council was so worried about 40 years ago.
The best view of Brighton seafront these days is from the top of the i360 tower, on the other side of the pier. Its giant glass viewing pod slowly glides 450ft to the top and features an airportstyle “check-in” for travellers. I can clearly see the route I plan to take out of Brighton, following the Ditchling Road that eventually becomes the B2112 and leads to Haywards Heath.
By 8.30am there are already queues of cars pouring into the city from the A23 and A27. Children on the back seats are mesmerised by their mobile phones – 40 years ago it would have been a Rubik’s Cube.
Ditchling nestles on the South Downs and the locals are quite happy to be away from it all when Brighton rocks at the weekend. It’s a sleepy resting place for cyclists and walkers who can fill their boots at the cafés and delis spread around the high street. The Green Welly has a sunny walled garden and does a mean frittata.
Nearby Ditchling Beacon is the highest point in East Sussex – at 814ft, it is almost twice as high as the i360. Maintained by the National Trust, this time of the year walkers should expect to share views of the Weald and the South Downs with sheep and kite-flyers.
Further north is Burgess Hill, a busy market town near Plumpton racecourse that seems to be growing in all directions. It’s on the main line to London and surrounded by beautiful countryside, so no wonder house prices are soaring.
Travel north from here, across Pains Flat and through pretty Ansty and Cuckfield to Warninglid. Apart from the excellent Half Moon pub, this is the site of the 222-acre Lydhurst Estate, once the home of the late Sir Jack Hayward, famous for owning Wolverhampton Wanderers football club and for his charitable work.
Public footpaths criss-cross the land, or you can stay in one of the newly restored estate properties. Wisteriaclad Aunt’s House is a five-bedroom property with access to a tennis court and games room, right next to Sir Jack’s old mansion. Visitors can wander around the grounds and spectacular feature gardens.
On a bank holiday weekend in West Sussex there are few places this relaxed. On the edge of the garden is a statue of a soldier as a memorial to the Local Defence Volunteers, later renamed the Home Guard. Units of this “Dad’s Army” were stationed at the house during the Second World War, using it as a lookout post.
Each building on the estate tells its own story – the Mission House was once a church and school, the two stone workmen’s cottages are tucked away at the end of a private lane surrounded by fields. Wander the bluebell wood or simply soak up the views – just keep your clothes on (and bring your own Rubik’s cube).
Joggers, dog-walkers and those out for their morning constitutional seem unperturbed
visitbrighton.com; nationaltrust. org.uk; mulberrycottages.com; britishairwaysi360.com