Shift up or down a size to transform smart into casual
The great conundrum: when does a dress fit and when does it veer into oversized and shapeless (while comfortable and curry-night friendly)? Here is a prime example of how a dress morphs into a different look simply through a larger size.
This is the superbly named Goldfinch midi dress by British brand Goat. Notice how in one small step the whole style shifts from day wear (pink) to smarter evening wear (blue). The camellia print fabric is the same, and both sizes do technically “fit”.
Next, see how shoes change the dress’s perception. As a rule, heels and height make you stand with more poise while trainers/plimsolls or ankle boots mean we hold ourselves, well, more casually. So perhaps, without realising, today’s column is also about the perfect shoe.
My heels (below right) are by Emmy London, and have just the right gradient that means the weight (and pressure) is evenly distributed between heel and toe – and a little more glamorous than a block heel, usually my go-to style. Emmy Scarterfield is the kind of shoe designer who can read a woman’s feet and lifestyle, and will direct us to one of her three heights (memorable: high, mid or low). At any of these shoe heights, style is never sacrificed.
I digress. I would generally flock to a more relaxed fit in everything I wear. I tend to save shape (and even discomfort) for evening. I am sure I am not alone. But slowly, I’m realising that floaty and boho isn’t the only way to dress for daytime, though I am not someone who wants to feel restricted by day wear. A great blazer, tailored and fitted, balances with a looser-fitting trouser style, for example. The key is in the way a fabric glides, rather than clings. Too much “hug” and every lump and bump shows. Too much tailoring and we appear rigid or corporate. But too much fabric and we can be swamped. You want movement but you want to retain a silhouette.
That’s why shift dresses have proved so popular. They create a lovely capital A shape. Or why silk and viscose are more versatile than unyielding cottons that can feel bulky under a blazer, for instance. When I worked at Vogue,I remember a senior editor declaring, “bigger always looks more expensive” and that’s why this oversized trend isn’t going away any time soon. But if “boyfriend” and “oversized” aren’t for you, I would steer you towards brands such as Goat, Cefinn and Tibi for the right mix of cut, fabric variety, movement and feminine appeal.
Goat, shown here, has a charming balance of patterned or floral items as well as plain block colour pieces. I would also urge you to always test a size up or down. If it means standing taller, tummy pulled in, but still relatively comfortable, you might be more inclined to veer from your usual comfort zone, quite literally, and opt for a look more in keeping with how the designer likely envisaged the item to be worn. You will always gain or lose weight at certain times of the year, usually at the waist. We are only human. A good pair of lined trousers works wonders as they skim the thighs so much better. Tweaks like this make for huge changes to comfort and confidence. The reason this dress is looking a little more fitted than normal, I should add, is because I am pregnant with my third baby. “Fitted” won’t exist in my wardrobe for a while, but this won’t become a diary of maternity dressing. I’m looking at fashion with a more discerning eye because I am not in the market for very many new items. It’s all about you. I hope you enjoy what’s in store as we tweak the column ever so slightly. See you next week.
vchstyle.com