6 OF THE BEST

Vegan cheese

By Morgan Lawrence

It wasn’t long ago that most vegan “cheese” was largely flavourless, save for a nose-wrinkling soya-andsawdust aftertaste. It was the bane of those following a non-dairy diet. But thanks to a wave of newbreed dairy alternatives made with sophisticated techniques (including hickory smoking and cave ageing, and with the addition of cultured bacteria), the latest offerings deliver wellbalanced – even delicious – flavours in products that actually taste, well, cheesy.

The market is booming: in 2018, 16 per cent of all new food product launches in the UK were vegan, doubling from the previous year. In September, Applewood Vegan (a collaboration between the makers of Applewood cheese and Heather Mills’ VBites) sold out in 40 per cent of stockists on the day it hit the shelves, while, vegan manufacturer Violife was ranked 19th in the top 20 most successful cheese brands by The Grocer. But which new players taste the best?

OCADO FREE FROM CHEDDAR STYLE CHEESE ALTERNATIVE £2 FOR 200G, OCADO

This crumbly cheddar-like wedge, made with coconut oil, is texturally the closest to the real deal and melts a treat under the grill. Too much, though, and the strong coconutty aftertaste becomes a little sickly. 7/10

TYNE CHEASE CASHEW TRUFFLE CHEASE £8.95 FOR 150G, TYNECHEASE.COM

This cashew-based cultured “chease” has strong notes of white truffle oil and garlic which offer a pleasing cheesy funk as well as some nuttiness. This would be welcome on any cheese board, a great all-rounder. 9/10