Roasted squash
markets, where they are often piled outside for the same reason I keep them on my table – because they last well and look beautiful. None of which would be worth anything if they weren’t also delicious, which of course they are, each in its different way.
SQUASH, PUMPKIN OR GOURD?
All are members of the cucurbitaceae family, but gourds have very little flesh and are generally not eaten. Winter squash have hard skins and generally keep well, and include pumpkins and butternut squash. Summer squash have tender skins, and include pattypan squash, courgettes and marrows.
PEELING SQUASH
My advice? Don’t. If you are roasting chunks or wedges, there is no need to peel them. The skin is edible and it will be perfectly tender by the time it comes out of the oven; in fact it makes a good contrast to the softness of the flesh. Plus, it will look much prettier. Even if you find the skin too tough to make good eating, it’s much easier to slice it off once cooked. That said, if you are steaming or microwaving squash for a purée or soup, you might want to peel it. A swivel-bladed vegetable peeler is the best tool for the job.
CUTTING SQUASH
Large squash can be hard to cut open. Your greengrocer should be able to chop it into quarters for you: think of them as a vegetable butcher. Otherwise use a heavy knife, or, as a last resort, drop it on a hard (wipeable) floor, which should be enough to split it.
ROASTING THE SEEDS
The seeds from the squash are all edible, shell and all, but vary in their toughness. I’m happy to munch on the large ones, almost the size of a penny, but you may prefer to stick to the smaller seeds, no more than a centimetre long. To roast, scrape all the guts from the squash, seeds and fibre. Squish it all together with your hands so all the seeds are coated in mush. No need for salt or oil. Spread on a baking sheet and cook for 10-20 minutes at 180C/160C fan/Gas 4 until golden. Tip into a bowl to cool, or, for large seeds, such as Crown Prince, turn off the oven and let them finish cooking as the oven cools.
SQUASH VARIETIES CROWN PRINCE
Pale blue-green, one of the most beautiful squash. The flesh is deep orange and has a good flavour. It is drier and more starchy than butternut, often with an almost potato-like texture. Great mashed with lots of butter, or roast as part of a mixture of squash.
ACORN SQUASH
Dark green or orange, with a pointy tip: when halved it’s more heartshaped than acorn. The yellow flesh has a mild chestnutty flavour. Cut slices across the ridges to make a pretty scalloped shape, or halve, scoop out the seeds and stuff with sausage meat and breadcrumbs before roasting.
Looks like one larger squash with another smaller, stripy one stuck on top. It has tough skin, so you will need a heavy knife or a cleaver. The pale yellow flesh is a little more watery and fibrous than butternut squash, with a buttery flavour. Makes a good soup.
HARLEQUIN
A similar shape to acorn squash, but striped and speckled cream and green or orange. The pale yellow flesh has an almost marrow-like
Particularly good if you have a mixture of different kinds so you can compare the different textures and flavours.
INGREDIENTS
Mixed squash (allow about 250g per person as a side dish or twice that if is the main focus of the meal) Olive oil
Salt
Optional: chilli flakes, fennel seeds, ground cumin
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/Gas 4.
Cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Cut into narrow wedges, no more than 3cm wide and put in a bowl with just enough olive oil to coat. Toss with your hands until all the pieces are gleaming with oil.
Line the base of a large, shallow roasting tin with baking parchment – this isn’t compulsory, but if you don’t the sugar in the squash means it sometimes sticks, which is a shame as you lose some of the dark caramelised crust.
Spread the squash out in the tin in a single layer and sprinkle with salt, plus (if you like) chilli, and fennel seeds or cumin.
Roast the squash for 40 minutes, turning the wedges carefully halfway through. tenderness. It tends to go mushy when roasted, so instead sauté in butter or olive oil until golden and scatter with dill or parsley.
SPAGHETTI SQUASH
Best halved lengthways. Once cooked, the flesh, with a little teasing with two forks, separates into cream-coloured strands that look like spaghetti but are softer and very bland. Flick out the seeds and serve with lots of seasoning, butter or olive oil, and parmesan.