The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

FISH FEASTS

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NEWBOROUGH BEACH, ANGLESEY

A creamy arc of sand, Newborough is a forest-backed wilderness made even more appealing by the views across to Snowdonia on a crisp day. The Marram Grass restaurant (themarramg­rass.com) is disconcert­ingly located beside a caravan site, but this takes nothing away from the quality of the food it offers, in a low-key space. It is open Thurs-Sun at this time of year, and the menu changes daily and features hyperlocal produce, with tasting menus offered for the whole table.

PORTSTEWAR­T STRAND, CO LONDONDERR­Y

Golden sand spreads for two miles and is backed by impressive dunes at this important conservati­on site in Northern Ireland. Timbered Harry’s Shack, on the beach, has loyal fans and restaurant-quality food. The decor is rustic, as you would expect, but the simple dishes are well-executed and smartly presented. Though the emphasis is on locally caught fish, the burgers are mighty fine, too.

COPPET HALL BEACH, PEMBROKESH­IRE

Just before Tenby, Saundersfo­ot Bay is nestled into the Pembrokesh­ire

SHORELINE BOUNTY

Mussels are on the menu at the Marram Grass restaurant on Anglesey coastline. Coppet Hall’s gently shelving beach is flat enough for games to get the blood pumping on a cold day. Set just back from the sand, Coast is an architectu­rally pleasing restaurant with big views of the sea, accomplish­ed plates of modern food and wine flights (lunch and dinner Weds-Sat, lunch on Sun, (coastsaund­ersfoot.co.uk). In early March, Saundersfo­ot hosts the annual Cawl by the Sea, a soup-making contest with tastings.

KING EDWARD’S BAY, TYNEMOUTH

Tucked into a grassy slope, King Edward’s Bay sits in the shadow of Tynemouth Priory and Castle.

Riley’s Fish Shack occupies the sand just beneath the ruins and is a must-try for its succulent, fresh seafood, served in cardboard boxes (open all day every day, noon start on Tues, rileysfish­shack. com). The beach is close to town and so convenient for a brisk winter’s walk, when the waves have whipped themselves up and when tables at the shack are much easier to come by.

CHESIL BEACH, DORSET

This long, pebble and shingle beach acts as a barrier to the sea, a stark frontier, defiant against winter waves. Thankfully there is a host of good

LIFE OF RILEY

Good food is on offer this winter at Riley’s in Tynemouth, in the shadow of the castle

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The Crab House Café and its signature dish, bottom
MAKE IT SNAPPY The Crab House Café and its signature dish, bottom

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