Port is the gift that keeps giving at any time of year, says Susy Atkins
Port is not just for Christmas, as those who market the stuff are fond of reminding us. And they’re right – sipping a glass of refreshing chilled tawny on a warm summer’s night is a joy. But northern Portugal’s classic fortified wine undoubtedly suits Christmas more than any other season. Port’s sweetness soothes us on a dark night, its strength (think 20% ABV) warms us, while its rich, spicy flavours pair up wonderfully with both a traditional Christmas cake and pudding, mince pies, dried fruits, walnuts, hard and blue cheeses – even a box of dark chocolates.
There’s another reason port is popular at this time of year – it makes a great gift. In part this is because it’s so suitable for sharing in groups, half a bottle between three or four, say, or a whole one for six or even eight. Passing the port around the table (and I don’t care which way it goes) is a truly convivial, celebratory way to finish a splendid feast. All the better if the bottle was a gift from a guest.
If it doesn’t get finished up, no problem. Fortified wines last longer than ordinary ones once opened, as their higher levels of sugar and alcohol help preserve them, so you can wheel them out again when more relatives, neighbours and friends turn up, as they tend to, through December into the new year.
Many of the high street retailers field a surprisingly impressive selection. Port is, in general, keenly priced. Here are three that represent good value, to buy ahead of the game. Give them away as most welcome gifts, but maybe insist that you are there when they’re opened.
TAYLOR’S SELECT RESERVE PORT
Douro, Portugal (20%, The Co-operative, £10.75, £7, £7.50 in Scotland, until Jan 2/75cl)
A fresh and relatively simple red port, not one to age, but appealing with its plum and damson fruit and twist of black pepper. One for a cheeseboard. For every bottle sold, 10p will go to a reforestation project in the Douro Valley.
FINEST 10 YEAR OLD TAWNY PORT
Douro, Portugal (20%, Tesco, £12.50/75cl)
Tawnies spend longer in barrel than the red ports, emerging softer and smoother. This one has hints of Seville orange, wood spice, almonds and demerara sugar. It picked up a coveted gold in the International
Wine Challenge awards this year, deservedly so.
FEUERHEERD’S SPECIAL RESERVE TAWNY PORT
Douro, Portugal (20%, Waitrose, £14.99)
A smartly wrapped bottle containing a tawny with layers of flavour including orange peel, toffee and cream. With its smooth, rounded finish, just right served slightly cool with a slice of traditional Christmas cake, or try it with a rich chocolate dessert.