WHO’S GAME?

Two-thirds of us pick this bird for Christmas lunch – where are the best places to order the star of this year’s feast?

Turkey is top of the pre-Christmas jobs, right up there with making the pud and getting an advent calendar. For most of us, the gorgeous gobbler is the bird that’s going to grace the table come Dec 25, and last Christmas we ate 10million of them, with two thirds of us giving turkey pride of place on the big day.

We all know what we want: a crisp-skinned, caramel-coloured roast, with tender, juicy flesh beneath, and a savoury smell that wafts through the house. It’s the centrepiece, so it better be right.

Achieving this is nerve-racking for the cook, but you can make it easier by picking the best bird you can afford. There’s a huge range available, so one way of narrowing it down is to go local. The National Farmers’ Union has a useful online finder, where you input your postcode to get a list of local farmers: go to ecommerce. nfuonline.com/back-britishfarming/uk-turkeys/turkey-finder or google NFU turkey finder.

If you want to be more specific about your bird, buying by mail order is a good option, with some really top-notch turkeys available. I’ve put together a list of some of the best, along with details of last ordering dates. That said, do get in sooner if you can, as small farms may run out before the advent calendar is half-opened.

RHUG ESTATE

Raised in north Wales on Lord Newborough’s estate, the organic Dee Valley bronze turkeys are served by starry chefs including Marcus Wareing and Hélène Darroze of the Connaught Hotel. Even the Prince of Wales is said to be a fan. They are wet-plucked and not hung, but they are a good age – nearly seven months, while standard birds may not make it to 20 weeks – feed on clover-rich pasture and get to listen to classical music in the barns.

Organic Dee Valley Bronze Turkey From £80.78 for a 4.5kg turkey Delivery £15 (free over £100) Last orders for Christmas delivery: Dec 10 TBC rhug.co.uk; 01490 413000

DONALD RUSSELL

Royal Warrant holder Donald Russell is based in Aberdeenshire, but its turkeys are French rather than Scottish, and frozen rather than fresh, making it a controversial recommendation. But frozen can be convenient if you need to get your turkey stashed away early (Donald Russell even claims that it can be cooked without defrosting) and the birds are superb, with a flavour that’s not too gamy. It doesn’t come with giblets, so don’t rely on them for the gravy.