The Cat’s Back, London SW18

A dapper chap in a natty cap had just ordered a pint of “motherin-law”. Old and bitter, in other words (geddit?) – a half of Harvey’s Old Ale and a half of Sussex Best in the same glass.

“I’m what you might call an infrequent regular,” he confided. “I’d be in here more often if I didn’t play so much bridge.”

So impeccably spoken was Christopher Rainbow, as he turned out to be named, that it came as no surprise to learn that he had once been a reporter on Thames TV. Until, that is, it lost its franchise in 1993.

The Thames itself runs softly at the end of the road, with many new “riverside” apartments on both banks. In this architectural context, the Cat’s Back offers a haven of tradition.

The name is the legacy of a licensee who, like Peggy in The Archers, had a cat that disappeared and then made a miraculous comeback. But the building dates back to Victorian times and has attractive features, including intricately etched front windows, a splash of stained glass behind the bar and a decorative wrought-iron fireplace, ablaze on cold days.

On the wall around it are paintings from the nearby Putney School of Art and Design. And on the wall opposite is a framed photo of footballers with long shorts and short hair from the era when players earned no more than factory workers.

There’s a piano that bursts into life at fairly regular intervals, topped by a grape vine transformed into a candlestick. “That was a gift from my business partner’s mother,” said licensee Toby Lindsey-Jones, a chef who offers “traditional food with a modern twist”.

Except for this lunchtime. Flu had taken its toll on the staff. A packet of crisps, then, in lieu of what would have been today’s special: beef short rib with spinach and horseradish mash.

At least the Sussex Best was in peak condition, abundantly hopped yet perfectly balanced. The Old was darker and fruitier, with a hint of chocolate. Separate glasses for me, thanks. My late mother-in-law was not a bitter sort. Much preferred a schooner of cream sherry.

Chris Arnot

86-88 Point Pleasant, London SW18 1NN; 020 8617 3448