The Blue Anchor, Teignmouth
Aficionados of historic letterboxes who also like a pint will want to make a beeline for Teignmouth, where a prime Victorian specimen is embedded in the wall right next to the Blue Anchor. And afterwards it’ll be straight into this Grade II listed establishment, which has probably been around as long as the letterbox.
Inside, it’s one big open room, no doubt a victim of pub “improvements” from the Sixties, when snugs, public bars and “lounges” were often deemed unnecessary and divisive. The walls are bare stone, though this is Devon grit rather than post-industrial Shoreditch. There’s a swirly carpet, various bric-a-brac and awards certificates on the wall, a pool table, darts board, TV for rugby and a real sense that this is a pub-pub.
Even though it’s just gone 4pm on a weekday, there’s brisk traffic in beer and chat at the bar. One chap tells his mate that he found a lovely crop of mushrooms yesterday, “but I’m not telling anyone where they are”.
There are eight hand pumps, two for local cider and the rest for cask beer, with the emphasis on West Country ales. I fancy something dark so I order a glass of Exmoor Ales’s Barista, which is a coffee stout, and yes, it does have a hint of Starbucks about it: mocha on the nose, a mellow and soft palate. It’s rather pleasing.
I sit in a corner and let the life of the pub swirl around, as two gorgeous dogs (a chocolate lab and a cocker) watch me patiently from behind child gates at the entrance to the bar.
On a beam above the bar is chalked a beer-centric tribute to Bill Shankly: “Cask conditioned beer is not a matter of life and death… it’s more important than that.” My sentiments exactly. Time for another. This time it’s Breakwater IPA by Bays Brewery, which has a bracing peppery bitterness, a crisp dryness and a bittersweet finish that means I’m halfway down the glass before I’ve even settled back in my chair.
Meanwhile, there’s more laughter around the bar, and the warmth and sense of community envelopes me like a blanket. I may be here some time.
Adrian Tierney-Jones
Teign St, Teignmouth, Devon TQ14 8EG: 01626 772741