It’s time to talk turkey, says Susy Atkins
If your favourite white wines are on the lighter side – aromatic Italians and lemony sauvignon blancs, say – you might want to think again when choosing bottles for the Christmas feast. Roast turkey with all those side dishes, gravy, cranberry sauce and so on, makes for a very rich and diverse plateful of flavours. Crisp, refreshing, delicate whites simply aren’t built for the task and will taste thin and acidic next to it.
Instead, turn to richer, riper, bolder styles. This is where the generously fruity chardonnay grape comes into its own. I never drink (or tip) chardonnay as an aperitif unless in its sparkling form, but as a match for a Sunday roast chicken it’s a star and each Christmas it’s my go-to variety for the turkey.
Choose it in the form of a white burgundy if you prefer the somewhat more restrained French style of chardonnay. You’ll still get plenty of ripe citrus and a slightly buttery, rounded edge, but if you like your chardonnay bursting with tropical fruit, toasty oak and a slightly sweet popcorn note, go all out New World.
That said, I know (really, I do) that not everyone likes chardonnay. Other good options with the classic Christmas feast include peachy but dry viognier and Rhône Valley white blends, which generally have more richness than most, and a nutty, creamy quality that works well.
Note that all these wines partner a seafood starter perfectly well, too, especially fresh or smoked salmon. It makes things easier not to swap bottles between the courses, so all the more reason to move towards the bigger whites on the big day.
MONTAGNY PREMIER CRU 2017
Burgundy, France (13%, Marks & Spencer, £14)
From southern Burgundy, a chardonnay with beautiful balance, fresh and fruity with plenty of orange zest and ripe yellow apple, and a subtle toasty edge from careful barrel ageing. A great choice for a traditional Christmas Day feast.
FREI BROTHERS CHARDONNAY 2017
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, USA (14%, Waitrose, £17.99 down to £10 from Dec 4-17)
A great offer on this fine California chardonnay starts on Wednesday, part of Waitrose’s “10 at £10” deal. With its rich golden hue, ripe mango and pineapple, this is a full-flavoured white for the big bird.
TASTE THE DIFFERENCE CôTES DU RHôNE WHITE 2018
France (13%, Sainsbury’s, £8)
A blend of white grenache, viognier and roussanne fermented separately with the last two grapes aged on oak for six months. The result is a well-made, slightly fuller white than most, with fresh hints of citrus peel but decent weight; rounded and a little creamy.