Selecting the right red is an art in itself, says Susy Atkins
The key to choosing the right red for a classic Christmas feast is to make sure it isn’t “too” anything. Not too old and savoury, nor too acidic. Not too light, but not too heavy or over-oaky either. Yes, you need to find a Goldilocks red – one that’s just right.
Look for a ripe, rounded, fairly soft-textured wine. Big chewy tannic reds work better with lamb and hard cheeses than they do with a roast bird.
And consider everything else on the plate – peppery sausages, sweet-tinged root veg, gravy and cranberry sauce. You’ll need an easygoing, most accommodating red to take it all on.
That could well mean New World pinot noir, bursting with red berries. Although Burgundy remains pinot’s first home, I think the Christmas plateful works a bit better with the sunny, fruit-driven versions from New Zealand, Chile, Australia, USA and South Africa. As well as the one on the right, try Asda’s well-priced Extra Special Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2018, Australia (13%, £8). Pinot works every bit as well with a goose as a turkey (something you can’t say for any white wines) and it’s a well-balanced partner for many hearty Christmas vegetarian dishes.
The alternative is a Rhone red, which will suit those who want more spicy and peppery nuances. Make it a smooth, mellow northern Rhone syrah, or a southern Rhone blend.
Whichever you choose, decant your red on Christmas Day (a glass jug will do almost as well as a decanter), to open up the aromas and soften the flavours. Besides which, if you can’t have a bit of fancy ritual around a red on Dec 25, I don’t know when you can.
PLAN DE DIEU 2018, COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES,
France (14%, Marks & Spencer, £9)
A fairly new cuvée at M&S, and a wellbalanced, versatile red that could match a roast bird or rib of beef. A blend of mainly syrah and grenache, it’s well-balanced and ripe, with plenty of blackberry and red plum fruit.
FINEST CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT NOIR 2018,
New Zealand (13.5%, Tesco, £13)
The Villa Maria winery made this for Tesco and with a deft hand (it has just won an IWC gold medal), so the bright blackcurrant and cherry fruit shines out, with a subtle toasty hazelnut hint from oak ageing – perfect for turkey or goose and all the sides.
GRAND CLASSIQUE CROZES-HERMITAGE 2017,
Cave de Tain, Rhone, France (13%, selected Waitrose and waitrosecellar.com, £15.99 down to £10 until Dec 18)
The jewel in the crown of Waitrose’s current “10 at £10” premium wine offer, this northern Rhone syrah is rich but beautifully rounded and smooth with ripe cassis and a subtle pepperiness. Well worth seeking out.