Don’t buy a last-minute turkey of a Christmas bottle, says Susy Atkins

Here’s what NOT to throw in the trolley on a last-minute wine shop before Christmas. They’re the most obvious ones of all: pinot grigio and malbec. Cheap PG often tastes bland and malbec’s rich black cherry fruit is better suited to steaks or barbecued chops than a roast bird. And do swerve the biggest inexpensive brands, especially those from California and Australia, as they often taste too darn sweet.

Instead, if you’re only buying one white in a rush, make it a burgundy, fresh enough for parties and seafood, yet ripe and robust enough for smoked salmon and the turkey. As well as the one on the right, check out the balanced, creamy Louis Latour Macon-Lugny 2018 (13%, Majestic, £13.99 down to £9.99 in a mixed six until Jan 1) and Morrisons’ fresh and lightly toasty The Best Chablis 2018 (12.5%, £13 down to £10 until Jan 1).

A soft, rounded, all-purpose red for parties and easy food pairing could be a mellow Rhône, southern Italian or Portuguese label. Skip anything too oaky. I like M&S’s new, cassis-packed Nero d’Avola 2018, Sicily (13%, £6.50) and the versatile smooth and redcurranty La Vielle Ferme Rouge 2018, Vin de France (13%, Tesco, £7.50 down to £6.50 until Jan 1) as well as the Porta on the right. And don’t miss out on a warming port or luscious golden dessert wine to shine with puddings or cheese. As well as the port, right, check out honeyed, citrus-tangy Chateau Roumieu Sauternes, Bordeaux (13.5%, Co-op, £10 down to £9 for 37.5cl until Jan 3), which might also just be that last-minute present you needed to buy.

LES CHARMES MACONLUGNY 2018

Cave de Lugny, Burgundy, France (13%, Waitrose, £13.49, down to £8.99 until Jan 2)

An unoaked white from southern Burgundy, young and lively with a juicy orange streak but enough weight to match deftly with Christmas food, salmon and turkey in particular. Eye-catching offer, too.

PORTA 6 2018

Lisboa, Portugal (13.5%, Majestic, £8.99 or £6.99 as part of mixed six until Jan 1)

This hugely popular blend of Lisbon-area grapes proves that Portugal offers great value on mellow, soft, crowd-pleasing reds. Fine on its own or with savoury party food, it will come in handy at Christmas.

FINEST VINTAGE PORT 2007

Douro, Portugal (20%, Tesco, £20)

An award-winning star in Tesco’s admirably impressive collection of ports this year, made for the store by the Symington port shippers. With its rich core of black cherry and plum and hint of black liquorice, it’s an absolute cracker to go with the cheeseboard.