Time to savour a good Scotch, say Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley
‘Idon’t really like whisky,” is a complaint we hear all too often, especially around Burns Night, which falls this coming Saturday. Our standard response to anyone bemoaning the Scottish spirit is that they just haven’t found the right one yet – but, what with the breadth and depth of flavour that Scotch can offer, the solution can be a little like bagging a gig at Carnegie Hall: you need to practise.
This means opening a lot of bottles from different regions of Scotland: tasting the heathery notes of Highland whisky, through to the bold smokiness developed by the Islands and coastal distillers. And that’s just the single malts. Add to this blended Scotch, which combines both of these styles, plus the more subtle, vanilla-led grain whiskies, and you’ll find your options are almost unlimited.
A far better approach for sceptics, we find, is to think about changing the serve. There is nothing wrong with adding a touch of water to your whisky if you find that more palatable. Better still is to take a lead from the rise (and rise) of gin: lengthen your whisky with some sparkling water, plenty of ice and a slice of lemon. This “Scotch and soda” serve, known as a Highball, is more traditional than you might think, and will transform a wee dram of any style of whisky from a highstrength nip into a long, refreshing and delicious drink.
Once opened, a bottle of whisky will stay in tip-top form until it’s about half-full; below that and the oxygen level tends to have a negative effect on the spirit – a sign that it’s time to roll out a whisky cocktail!
TAMDHU 12-YEAR-OLD
(43%, £44.95, masterofmalt.com)
Though you may not be familiar with it, Speyside’s Tamdhu dates back to 1897 and is becoming highly revered among connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike as a truly exceptional malt. The 12-yearold is full of rich, spicy, robust layers of complex sherry cask fruitiness.
ARDMORE 20-YEAR-OLD
(49.3%, £69.95, thewhiskyexchange.com)
While the west coast isles are famously home to pungent, peaty whiskies, Ardmore in Kennethmont, Aberdeenshire, produces this wonderfully balanced version, distilled with just the right amount of peat to pair with your haggis.
ROYAL SALUTE 21-YEAROLD SIGNATURE BLEND
(40%, £116, thewhiskyexchange.com)
This exceptional blend was first made in 1953 to celebrate the Coronation. Today it’s as delicious as ever, made with whiskies all aged more than 21 years. It is rich, honeyed and hugely elegant, with a touch of smoke for good measure.