Non-alcoholic spirits, beers and ciders have come of age, says Susy Atkins
When did nonalcoholic drinks step up to become serious treats? Elderflower pressé is nice enough, but pouring it never really counted as an indulgent moment. Then along came Seedlip – the game-changing non-alcoholic spirit – followed by a raft of much better no- or ultra-low-alcohol beers and ciders. I’m still waiting for better versions in wine, but booze-free options are a lot more special overall.
This should not only please teetotallers, but those of us who want some lockdown evenings, or picnics, off the alcohol yet with something delicious in our glasses. I’m especially keen on Sea Arch, a “non-alcoholic distilled spirit” from Torbay launched last year which makes an excellent substitute for gin. Its creators, Geoff and Sarah Yates, aimed to make it “fresh, clean and dry”, pointing out that most soft drinks are very sweet.
Their method involves macerating some of the botanicals in alcohol, distilling, then removing the alcohol; other natural ingredients are steam distilled to extract their flavours. The liquids are blended together; Sea Arch is calorie-free, sweetener-free and sugar-free (though if you add tonic you introduce some sugar and calories to the drink). It deserves a bit of ceremony – a copa glass, good mixer, ice and slice of citrus.
And hats off to Manchesterbased alcohol-free brewer Drynks Unlimited for its Smashed range of no-abv lager, cider and citrus beer, which featured (successfully) on Dragons’ Den and taste remarkably similar to decent “normal” brews. My teens liked them too, so we now have a liquid treat for all the family.
SEA ARCH DISTILLED SPIRIT
Torbay, England (0%, seaarchdrinks.com, masterofmalt.com, £24.95 for 70cl)
A properly dry and complex no-alcohol spirit, with the scents and flavours of piney juniper and orange oil, a savoury twist from Devon sea kelp, finishing with a bitter twist. I like it with a light (low sugar) tonic, loads of ice and a lime or mandarin slice.
SMASHED CITRUS BEER
Manchester, England (0.0%, drynks.co.uk, zeroholic.co.uk, Booths £1.75 for 330ml)
Brewed with English hops and barley with the addition of natural citrus flavours, this is really refreshing with a hoppy bite at the end. A particularly appealing nonalcoholic draught for a garden picnic.
Thatchers has done a great job with its new alcohol-free cider, which is medium dry and super-juicy, smooth and not too fizzy. The lightly honeyed mid-palate turns crisp on the finish – one for crusty bread and cheddar cheese.