AFRICA FROM THE WATER

In my early 20s, I set off on a two-year backpacking adventure that would take me first to Malawi. It was spring, and I stepped off a plane in Lilongwe to find streets festooned with Love Heart-mauve blooms. On subsequent trips to central and southern Africa I’ve spent time in deserts, up mountains and in game parks. But there is another way to see it. The Zambezi and Chobe rivers, and their tributar