The Betsey Wynne, Buckinghamshire

Have you ever been to a pub where they don’t know what they’re doing? No ice or lemon for your G and T, resentful bar staff, no management and consequently the place is a tip and the customers angry? Well, the Betsey Wynne in the first week since lockdown is the opposite of that. Placid, efficient, calm and very reassuring, a credit to pretty little Swanbourne in leafy North Bucks.

I was expecting door patrols demanding my papers and temperature checks. Instead simple signage, optional hand sanitiser and welcoming staff to see us to our table.

I’d booked, so they already had my details: booking is not mandatory, although “it’s advised in the early weeks” our waitress told us. Yes, waitress, there’s no ordering at the bar; it’s all brought to you.

I was also expecting to be sat in a Perspex booth ordering by app but no, it was a quite regular pub layout – a contemporary take on Olde English half timbering (the beams inside the dining area are straight) named after an adventurous lady who sailed with Nelson’s fleet and eventually settled in the area.

Tables are spaced sensibly, and staff can take orders from an appropriate distance, with nary a face mask in sight. There’s also a huge garden (but the weather put paid to al fresco pints when we visited).

We had the old standard, London Pride and a burger. All very normal, but extremely welcome after three months inside. Hats off to pubs like this for reaching this point of relative serenity in such a short turnaround. Same to the legions of brewers working all hours to get the beer out.

So – a little sadly – I have to report that there were no hilarious incidents. it was like a normal trip to a country pub. But right now, if you’re a bit nervous about going out, a touch of normality is probably what you need. That, and a well-deserved pint, of course. 21 Mursley Rd, Swanbourne, Bucks MK17 0SH; 01296 720825; thebetseywynne.co.uk