‘Stepping briefly on to its shores seemed like tick-box tourism’

Chris Leadbeater reveals why he decided against a day trip to this tropical paradise from neighbouring Malaysia

Just over five years ago, in the welcome warmth of a tropical January morning, I stood on the sand of Datai Bay, on the Malaysian island of Langkawi – and considered fleeing the country. I knew that the land mass visible six miles to the north was Ko Tarutao – a marine national park, and part of Thailand. I also knew that its neighbour Ko Lipe was another piece of the Thai jigsaw in the Andaman Sea and, if I was quick, I could catch a ferry there from Kuah on Langkawi’s southern edge, and be eating fish on Pattaya Beach by noon.

In the end, caution tied me down; I was due to fly home early the next day, so missing the boat back would have been a nightmare. It also occurred to me that to make the trip would be disrespectful. I had never been to Thailand but stepping briefly on to one of its southern fragments, then telling people I had visited a country of 67million, felt like one of those acts of tick-box tourism I’d always decried.

I could imagine the conversation with someone who had properly explored the country: “So where did you go? Did you make it up to Chiang Mai? It feels so remote in the north. It’s so beautiful.”

“No. I hopped over from Malaysia for two hours. Had a beer. Came back…”

The trouble is, half a decade on, Thailand and I are no better acquainted. I don’t know why. I’ve travelled in Cambodia, Vietnam and Indonesia, as well as Malaysia, but Krabi, Phuket and Bangkok remain places other people have seen.

Perhaps that’s the issue – an unconscious travel-writer snobbery that steers me away from popular places. Or perhaps our time is soon to come – in far greater detail than a sly glance across the water.