WAITING GAME
Queuing round the block for a table at the hottest restaurants may well become a thing of the past, says
It has always been a gamble, attempting to eat at a restaurant that doesn’t take bookings. The trendier it is, the longer the queue, often starting so far from the entrance you lose sight of it. There are benefits to the walk-insonly policy: a constant flow of people saves restaurants losing money from no-shows (pertinent now more than ever), and a line of people outside is the best kind of free advertising. But with restaurants running at around 70 per cent capacity due to social distancing, and tight-knit queues a no-no, reservations make good sense, allowing staff to control the flow of customers and clean surfaces and us the chance to book some of the country’s hotspots.
“We’ve always been proud of our no-reservations policy,” says Sam Hart, co-founder of the Michelin-star tapas restaurant Barrafina with four sites in London. “It’s democratic, flexible and sociable – you can drink cava and eat para picar [snacks] in the queue while waiting for your seat.” But he is realistic about the problems this poses post-lockdown. “The queue is wholly impractical with physical distancing, and if guests are making a special effort to come and visit us at this time, we want them to have some certainty.”
For customers starting to return to restaurants, that is especially reassuring: the need for a confirmed reservation feels more pressing for those of us travelling further afield, especially to the capital, to eat out.
Seventy per cent of Hart’s seats are now bookable, the rest available for “spontaneous guests” who can join a virtual queue if no tables are available immediately. Since Barrafina attracts some of London’s longest queues, it’s no surprise that “all the bookable tables have largely been booked out”, as Hart explains.
The virtual queue has been adopted by a number of restaurants. Apps such as WalkUp allow those within a certain radius to “join the
Barrafina restaurants have adapted their no-reservations rule queue”, sending out notifications when it’s time to stroll to the restaurant for an available table. The cult pasta specialist Padella, in Borough Market, is one of many to have introduced e-queuing. A guaranteed table at some of the country’s hottest venues is a tempting prospect – these should keep us sated for the next few weeks.
GLORIA, LONDON
A hub of 1970s Capri-style flamboyance, Gloria – and its sister restaurant Circolo Popolare – was previously only bookable for groups of six or more. Both are taking reservations for two or more, with some tables kept available for walk-ins. bigmammagroup.com
BAO, LONDON
Though this stylish Taiwanese restaurant allowed bookings at its Borough Market and Fitzrovia branches, the Soho flagship has famously been walkins only, generating long queues to the front door. Those craving its confit pork bao buns need only wait until Aug 4 for it to reopen with a booking facility. baolondon.com
EL PASTOR, LONDON
Tucked under the arches of Borough Market, El Pastor (also owned by Hart) is the place to go for freshly-made corn tacos filled with soft-shell crab and groaning plates of beef short rib. It’s normally a walk-ins only operation, but El Pastor and its newer incarnations (Casa Pastor and Plaza Pastor in north London) are all now taking reservations via the booking platform Resy. tacoselpastor.co.uk
MORITO, LONDON
This brilliant little tapas bar in Exmouth Market is now only offering tables via booking app ResDiary – or, if you happen to be within the vicinity of the restaurant, you can join a “virtual queue” via WalkUp. morito.co.uk
DISHOOM, LONDON, BIRMINGHAM, MANCHESTER AND EDINBURGH
For black dhal, tandoori lamb and chai tea, there are few buzzier spots than Dishoom, hence the regular snakes of people outside its eight branches. Though walk-ins are still allowed in the five restaurants that have reopened (see website), booking (previously only available for tables of six or more) is now possible for smaller numbers. dishoom.com
PORTA TAPAS, CHESTER, ALTRINCHAM, SALFORD
This group of tapas restaurants deals in mouthwatering tortillas and croquetas; instead of their usual walk-ins only policy, you can call ahead or turn up and join a virtual queue, meaning you can seek out interim entertainment until the call comes to say your table is ready. portatapas.co.uk
FRANCO MANCA, NATIONWIDE
Affordable, reliable and popular across the country for its sourdough pizza, visiting this chain at peak times can mean a wait. Advance bookings are still off the cards but it has introduced a virtual queue system, which you can join via the website if you’re close by to one of its restaurants. francomanca.co.uk