My top 10 wineries to visit now
Even with social distancing, this is a great time to enjoy an English wine tour, says Susy Atkins
I’m standing alone in my own spacious boxed-out area, delineated by tape on the floor, in the Camel Valley winery in Cornwall, surrounded by crates holding hundreds of wine bottles. Three metres to my left is a young couple, there are four housemates across to my right, and a family over in the corner, all in clusters. We’re listening as Sam Lindo, Camel Valley’s head winemaker, deftly explains the complex process of disgorgement (getting the yeast out of a bottle of fizz). Everyone in our small group listens intently, just as we did in the vineyard earlier when we socially distanced in and around the rows of vines. Welcome to a wine tour, summer 2020 style.
A visit to an English winery has never held so much appeal. First, it may be relatively local to your home (or UK holiday base). You might choose to hike or cycle there, healthily, instead of taking public transport or driving. Second, English wines are more popular than ever before, their high quality now widely recognised. Then there’s the fact that vineyards and wineries tend to be large, open spaces, where it is entirely possible to keep well apart, while learning from the experts. Of course, the numbers allowed on each tour are more limited this year – to a maximum of 20 in four private groups only at this winery. But Bob Lindo, Camel Valley’s founder and Sam’s father, thinks the current tours might be “a better experience” as a result. “It’s slightly harder work for us,” he says. “We have to manage people very carefully and think about where everyone is at any one time, but we will never go back to our larger, more crowded tours.
“Although our guests are standing apart, these small groups feel much more intimate.” They are certainly popular; Camel Valley is releasing dates for booking only slightly ahead, just one week at a time, and they sell out fast.
During our friendly and informal 45-minute circuit, we learn the basics about the vineyard cycle, pruning and harvesting, pressing, ageing and the methode traditionnelle production of fine sparkling wine.
Then it’s off to the tasting room with its balcony, terrace with vineyard views and very pretty garden to do a spot of self-guided sampling. The group breaks up and settles outdoors on this sunny day. Many visitors leave with bottles or cases of wine; to buy it, only one person is allowed in the shop at any one time, wearing a face mask.
Many of the wineries I am featuring here also report sell-out tours since reopening – so get booking quickly if you can. That’s for the structured, guided experiences; some allow visitors to drop in unannounced and get on with their own al fresco wanderings, usually issuing a map and, again, with social distancing rules applied.
Wineries have adapted, too – expect more space on balconies, newly-built terraces, extra marquees and pavilions outdoors. Picnics in the vineyards are all the rage this season, and more wineries provide picnic hampers or platters of local food to enjoy al fresco at designated places.
My day out felt far more relaxing and natural than I had expected of a group activity during this strange summer.
Just a couple of words of wisdom which, actually, would apply in any year; do wear sturdy, flat shoes (never flip-flops or heels) for the possibly muddy vineyard walk, take a waterproof or umbrella just in case; ditto sun screen. If you’re tasting lots of wines, drink plenty of water in between and eat well.
And if you have a group member kind enough to drive, do remember to buy him or her a bottle at the cellar door to enjoy later on.
‘Although our guests are standing apart, these small groups feel much more intimate’
Camel Valley, Nanstallon, Bodmin, Cornwall, PL30 5LG; 01208 77959; camelvalley.com
Informal tours with a winemaker are at 2.30pm Mon-Fri and cost £12 to include a glass of wine. Tours last around 45 minutes; you have a table booking with your ticket at the tasting room and shop (with outdoor areas with stunning views across the vines) until the winery closes at 4.30pm. Booking is essential and dates are only released the week before, one week at a time.
9 MORE MAGICAL TOURS
Unless specified, all these tours must be pre-booked.
ASTLEY VINEYARD, WORCESTERSHIRE
Astley’s guided tour lasts a generous 2½ hours, and is more comprehensive than some, with a walk among the vines (some over 50 years old), expert talk, glass of wine in a pavilion overlooking the Severn Valley, the lowdown on winemaking at the cellar door and tutored tasting of three wines with cheeses and salmon to match.
Astley Old Vine Kerner, a riesling cross variety. Hampstall Lane, Stourport on Severn, Worcestershire DY13 0RU; 01299 822907; astleyvineyard.co.uk
£25, 3pm Sat and Sun. August is sold out and bookings are now being taken for September and October.
LITTLE WOLD VINEYARD, YORKSHIRE
This vineyard west of Hull is a family affair; father Henry Wilson, winemaking son, Tom, and daughter, Alice, lead the friendly guided tours. Expect a brief history of the farm, personal reflections on growing grapes there, and a tasting, usually outside or in a marquee, with nibbles to soak up the wine. On a clear
Refuel at the Ridgeview Wine Garden, below and left