Oz Clarke’s new book gives due credit to English wines, writes Susy Atkins
English wines have never been so exciting, but until now there has been a distinct lack of accessible, entertaining books about it. Now broadcaster and author Oz Clarke has written the simply titled (Pavilion, £16.99). Combine Clarke’s lively, exuberant style with a subject inspiring many wine lovers and you have an uplifting read. Clarke presents England as “a new frontier, New World wine country with everything to prove, everything to explore”. He’s especially good on the pros and cons of a cool climate and isn’t afraid to criticise – on rosé: “even in 2019 I was surprised at how many I tasted lacked real style”.
Overall, though, it’s a hugely positive book; Clarke is clearly thrilled with the pace of change in English vineyards. He tells me he remembers tasting English wines in the 1980s: “A rough lot, but there were signs of promise even then, a greenness, a crisp crunch that showed we could do this better.” Now he believes the quality of nonvintage sparkling in particular “has soared in the past couple of years alone, in part because wineries have more reserve wines to call upon.”
The book takes us around the country, profiling Clarke’s favourite wineries and picking their best wines. There’s a section on Wales, too. Beginners will appreciate the low-down on grape varieties and how English sparkling wine is created; armchair experts will enjoy opinion pieces such as “Let’s avoid too much regulation”. The book will age quickly given the rapid evolution in the field so let’s hope Clarke gets to update it regularly with new editions. English wine deserves that.
FLINT VINEYARD BACCHUS 2018
Norfolk, England (12%, flintvineyard.com, £16.49; Berry Bros & Rudd, £18.50)
Clarke says: Bacchus is making a name for itself as the quintessential English grape variety, able to ripen and flourish from Sussex to Yorkshire. This Norfolk version is sappy, lemon-zesty, almost salty on the tongue and scented with elderflower.
NYETIMBER CLASSIC CUVÉE MV
West Sussex, England (12%, The Wine Society, £31; Waitrose £36.99; Majestic, £41.99 or £36.99 in a mixed six)
Clarke says: This is the winery that kick-started the great English quality revolution – and it’s still at the front of the pack. The bubbles foam across your palate and the flavour is nutty, toasty and memorably mellow.
CHAPEL DOWN FLINT DRY 2019
Kent, England (12%, Majestic, £14.99 or £12.99 in a mixed six; Waitrose, £13.99)
Clarke says: Chapel Down is a big operation and this is its flagship wine. It’s a brilliant mix of juicy chardonnay with numerous other grapes, blended to a tasty, bone dry, positively flinty style.